Restaurant of the Week(end): Market Table

Top 10 Greenmarket Restaurants, #7

Market Table is a misnomer now that its sparsely stocked grocery is history. A lone deli case still retails Pat LaFrieda meats, but the front space’s general store motif has been axed in favor of a comfy banquette and bar to complement the back room’s smattering of black-lacquered chairs. Those who use their oven mainly for extra closet space can rejoice in the dual sit-down service where Chef Mikey Price does all the heavy lifting for you. Like whipping local clover honey into a butter and proffering it as a spread for a piping hot side of hush puppies. Folksy touches such as a menu-scrawled chalkboard back wall and wayward copies of The Missouri Review abound, but discerning greenmarket groupies will quickly sniff out the Mermaid Inn-Little Owl pedigree in the Euro-tinged New American menu. What could be flyover state appetizers like crab cakes and bacon-wrapped scallops are given a jet-setting jolt via fiery tomato dressing and crystallized candied orange, respectively. The heartland is all but abandoned in continental-style mains like sautéed skate wing with white gazpacho and a whole bronzini swimming atop a Mediterranean Sea of spicy Sicilian escarole. Midday manages to be more red, white, and blue—the lunch menu jewel is a cheddar cheeseburger with freedom fries.

54 Carmine St. (at Bedford St.); 212-255-2100; markettablenyc.com