Wylie Dufresne Not So Impressed With 'Farm-to-Table' Food

In an interview with the Big Think, wd-50 chef Wylie Dufresne professes skepticism for some recent restaurant trends, like the craze for declaring food “farm-to-table.”

“I think sometimes things like ‘farm-to-table are misleading,” he says. “I think sometimes that becomes a pedestal or a soapbox to get people into your restaurant. And it’s almost empty. My food comes from a farm, and I serve it on a table…. It’s like smoke and mirrors for the diner. It’s false advertising. I’m at the greenmarket every week buying things, and I have been, but I don’t stand up on it and say, ‘Hey, come see really good vegetables at wd-50.’”

Not that trends are necessarily a bad thing!

“How or why you suddenly see pork belly on everyone’s menu I can’t really explain,” he says, “other than it tastes really good.”