Former New York Times dining critic Mimi Sheraton has no time for this so-called Brooklyn dining scene.
“I think the whole Brooklyn thing must be greatly exaggerated,” Sheraton told Capital New York yesterday.
This was the start of a profile in which Sheraton pined for the days when fine dining meant French and the best palates in Manhattan never, in God’s name, left the island. The Times — with its new food critic Sam Sifton, who is also not a favorite of Sheraton’s — has shifted some of the coverage to Brooklyn. (To look at how the two very different writers practice their prose, The Observer put their reviews of the same restaurant back to back.)
Anyway, the current crop of food critics are a bit irked at Dame Sheraton’s Manhattan-centric elitism. Here’s a roundup of them airing their frustration — on Twitter, of course.
Here’s Pete Wells, The Times‘ dining editor.
And Oliver Strand, who writes The Filter, The Times‘ coffee blog.
Michele Humes, who contributes to The Times‘ Diner’s Journal blog.
Kat Kinsman, managing editor of CNN’s food blog, Eatocracy.
Frank Bruni, former Times food critic and now a culture reporter.
Ben Leventhal, founder of Eater.com.
Amanda Hesser, food columnist for The Times.
And Sam Sifton himself, who dryly stated that the first restaurant he chose to review in 2011 was not, in fact, in Brooklyn.