We braced for the worst on the last day of New York Fashion Week, when Calvin Klein (and KCD) sent The Observer this alarming email warning:
“As a reminder, you are confirmed to attend the Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2012 Women’s show today at 2PM. We have been made aware that the Occupy Wall Street movement has plans to stage a non-violent demonstration in the vicinity of our show. Please note that we have taken extra security efforts to ensure the safety of our guests and that the entrance process into our venue is as seamless as usual. In light of this, all guests will be required to show email verification of a seat assignment and a form of photo identification. Please bring both with you this afternoon.
The event will be held at 205 West 39th Street and your seat assignment is L-2-2.”
The rain that day didn’t justify an umbrella (besides which we lost ours at Michael Kors…) Turns out—the PR precaution, while wise and considerate, was unnecessary as well.
“Occupy fashion week!” one pitifully quiet and tattered protester yelled as we marched past him.
Well-accustomed to the photo I.D. process by now, we dutifully cooperated before entering the pitch-black showroom.
Only two rows of seating boasted an impressive roster of fashion bigwigs, whose names were perfectly printed in each spot. Calvin Klein Eternity eau de parfum accompanied the name placards… perfect for re-gifting!
Patrick Demarchelier, Mario Sorrenti, Vinoodh Matadin and Inez van Lamsweerde sat directly in front of us!
“Tout va bien?” Mr. Demarcherlier greeted Ms. van Lamsweerde.
A quick span of the room, revealed even more glitterati. The arrivals of Lara Stone (supermodel/spokeswoman for Calvin Klein), Emma Stone and Rooney Mara gave Billy Farrell and cohorts plenty to do…
Creative director Francisco Costa has evolved the brand’s signature aesthetic to an unparalleled level of ultra-refined, minimalism. Mr. Costa didn’t disappoint for winter 2012/13 either.
The click-clack of the models’ heels was still audible over the austere soundtrack…
They wore firmly structured, glazed wool/mohair collarless coats with hammered silver belts–in exaggerated proportions. There was a weightlessness with the severity, however. On the lighter end, were shades of poppy and sienna on wool tweed shift dresses, with strong pleats. The texture of the fabrics easily conveyed their value.
Leather skirts, tops and dresses were balanced by soft cashmere—some in bold tones. What really made a statement, were the onyx embroidered, laser-cut wool separates and knotted silk embroidery bodice dresses (that glistened as if beaded appliqué).
As we slowly sauntered out, it seemed that the fashion frenzy had sobered… Calvin Klein Collection was a peaceful end.
Images: Dan Lecca and Patrick McMullan.
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