Zak Pelaccio Cutting the Fat, Glazing Turnips Instead

Pelaccio's bartender Kat Dunn. (Photo:  Laetitia Hussain)

Pelaccio’s bartender Kat Dunn. (Photo: Laetitia Hussain)

Zak Pelaccio’s newest venture differs from most mod-country, locavore eateries these days in one crucial way — it actually is in the country.

In the small upstate city of Hudson, a two-hour ride from Manhattan, the Falstaffian Fatty Crab/’Cue king has converted a former blacksmith shop into a louche temple of locavorism. Named to evoke both the bill of fare and a nearby country lane, and aiming to reap the bounty of the Columbia County landscape, Fish & Game officially opens this week. 300650