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Bryan Miller

Russian Tea Room Returns—Again! Food Used to Stink

When I learned that the Russian Tea Room was about to reopen earlier this month after four years as a darkened stage, I hoped for the best and expected the worst.

The six-story former brownstone on West 57th Street, wedged between Carnegie Tower and Metropolitan Tower, was purchased in 2004 for a reported $19 million Read More

Russian Tea Room Returns-Again! Food Used to Stink

When I learned that the Russian Tea Room was about to reopen earlier this month after four years as a darkened stage, I hoped for the best and expected the worst.

The six-story former brownstone on West 57th Street, wedged between Carnegie Tower and Metropolitan Tower, was purchased in 2004 for a reported $19 Read More

Inside the Newmans’ New Dressing Room

Paul Newman, Joanne Woodward, Jerry Stiller and Anne Meara, Sidney Poitier, Lauren Bacall, Jonathan Demme, Matthew Broderick—none was in attendance last Thursday evening when I visited, “invitation only,” the Dressing Room: A Homegrown Restaurant, the new venture in Westport, Conn., owned by the Newmans and their executive chef, Michel Nischan.

In advance of the formal Read More

Inside the Newmans' New Dressing Room

Paul Newman, Joanne Woodward, Jerry Stiller and Anne Meara, Sidney Poitier, Lauren Bacall, Jonathan Demme, Matthew Broderick—none was in attendance last Thursday evening when I visited, “invitation only,” the Dressing Room: A Homegrown Restaurant, the new venture in Westport, Conn., owned by the Newmans and their executive chef, Michel Nischan.

In advance of the Read More

The Michelin Invasion

Three weeks ago, on a Thursday, shortly after lunch service at Oceana, the elegant seafood restaurant on East 54th Street, a short, slight man in a business suit presented himself to the receptionist and inquired, in an unmistakable French accent, if he could have a word with the manager.

Paul McLaughlin, the restaurant’s managing partner, Read More

Front Page 8

The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine, by Rudolph Chelminski. Gotham Books, 354 pages, $27.50.

In September of 2002, my wife and I spent a week touring Burgundy’s glorious Côte d’Or. Three of those days were spent in a nondescript little town called Saulieu, where the sole attraction was a Michelin three-star Read More

Take That, Arthur Avenue! Riverdale Garden Grows in Bronx

Two years ago, when Michael Sherman completed his cooking apprenticeships at several of the city’s most famous kitchens-among them Lespinasse, Bouley, Aureole and March-he decided, like so many impatient young culinarians, to open his own restaurant.

“I looked at all of the boroughs in the city and discovered a huge void-in the Bronx,” Mr. Sherman Read More

Nobu Goes North, Joe Moves East, Bouley Bakery Comes to Tribeca

When the restaurant economy is good-and it’s very good indeed-culinary maternity wards overflow with the wistful, the risk-takers and, as always, the inept. This spring’s crop of new restaurants reflects these flush times in scope, number and variety. More than ever, it seems that successful restaurants are spinning off carbon copies of themselves, while others Read More