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In the Weeds

By Eddie Huang 6/25/12 8:00am

In the Weeds

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Marcus Samuelsson’s Overcooked Memoir Makes His Pricey Harlem Discomfort Food Hard to Swallow

Even before it played host to President Obama’s $1.5 million fundraiser dinner on March 29, 2011, Marcus Samuelsson’s Harlem soul food restaurant Red Rooster was a runaway success. Which unfortunately says more about America’s inability to grasp the nuances of race, neighborhood and food than it does about Mr. Samuelsson’s skills in the kitchen.

With Red Rooster, the Ethiopian-born chef behind Aquavit has given himself a difficult assignment—writing the report for a book he never read.

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By Eddie Huang 5/22/12 1:20pm

In the Weeds

Eddie Huang at GoogaMooga.

Gluttons for Punishment: How New York Restaurants Survived the Great GoogaMooga

May 19, 2:30pm. Prospect Park, Brooklyn. It was hot and humid, and we smelled like chicken grease. This was to be the day food stepped out of the shadows of the Style section and took its rightful place among movies, fashion, and of course, music. But along the way, something went wrong. The Baohaus booth had already sold 1000 orders of bao, but the line was still at least 50 deep. It looked like we had an hour of sauce left, but without cell phone reception, we couldn’t reach our reinforcements on 14th St. We’d all been in the weeds before, staring at a line of tickets on the speed rail, but this was a flaming, sinking, Everglades swamp no one was getting out of… Read More