Pilati and Golbin.

“You can find greatness everywhere. You just have to look for it,” said Harper’s Bazaar editrix, Glenda Bailey, quoting former Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati in a brief, prepared introduction. Ms. Bailey had been charged with welcoming the recently departed YSL designer to the stage as a part of French Institute Alliance Française’s Fashion Talks program. (Other fashion stalwarts this year include former president and executive creative direct of Coach, Reed Krakoff and designer Dries van Noten.)

With considerable buzz about Mr. Pilati’s exit after ten years at Yves Saint Laurent—one which had been the subject of many rumors—it was inevitable that the elephant in the room would be addressed. A throng of eager YSL devotees crowded Florence Gould Hall to witness Pamela Golbin, chief curator of Paris’ Musée de la Mode et du Textile, in conversation with Mr. Pilati.

The dashing Milanese, clad elegantly in a blazer, neck-foulard and thin-rimmed sunglasses, was greeted with much applause as he took his seat on stage. Mr. Pilati’s comfortable grin gave the impression that he had little to hide behind his shades… Thankfully Ms. Golbin started right away with the big question. Four weeks have passed since Mr. Pilati broke ties with the PPR mega-brand and Ms. Golbin inquired about how he was holding up. “I have a great state of mind! I’m really good, which is very unusual for me,” Mr. Pilati replied earnestly. He said that with his new found freedom, he has his “career in his hands.”

The Observer didn’t get too much more on the situation, except that the designer seems content with his numerous accomplishments and not having to dwell on the future: “I haven’t planned anymore,” Mr. Pilati told Ms. Golbin about his next professional step.

The designer with Glenda Bailey.

Most of Tuesday’s talk focused on Mr. Pilati’s quick ascension to the top of the high fashion world: From his internship with Nino Cerruti to his work at Giorgio Armani in men’s ready-to-wear (1993-95) and then a stint in Prada’s fabric research department, before becoming Miuccia Prada’s right hand man at Miu Miu (1995-2000). Mr. Pilati demonstrated a natural talent for selecting fabrics and navigated the politics of the design world well. It came as second nature for him— common sense—as if “to cook pasta without water!” Mr. Pilati credits Signora Prada as one of his major inspirations and mentors. The atmosphere at Prada though, was more familial than at Yves Saint Laurent, the designer stated. Prada was about the meaning whereas YSL was about managing an image. Mr. Pilati started at the famed French maison in 2000, working under Tom Ford, an experience he called challenging, but which gave him great confidence. Mr. Pilati was charged with reviving declining sales at the fashion empire and making YSL profitable, which meant creating “what the market was asking for.” Accessories became the principal solution and to this day, some of Mr. Pilati’s most memorable creations are iconic shoes and bags. He said the learning process of making coveted accessories as a highlight of his tenure at YSL, where he served as creative director from 2004 until this March.

Mr. Pilati describes himself as a passionate and complex person who loves to be spontaneous. These characteristics certainly influenced Mr. Pilati’s prêt-à-porter designs at Yves Saint Laurent and his work was not always adored by critics or the legendary founder himself. “To be controversial makes people think… there is always criticism… A controversy makes people stop… they can think what they want.” However, the passing of Mr. Saint Laurent in 2008 “gave me freedom,” Mr. Pilati confessed.

“If fashion was elegant it would be nicer to walk around and see people,” Mr. Pilati concluded with élan. When asked how the fashion world should remember his decade at Yves Saint Laurent, the designer commented that he doesn’t need any fanfare to commemorate his work,” Fashion is a privileged place.” Mr. Pilati’s words highlight his contentment with his achievements and the generous lifestyle he leads. It seems that despite all the fuss of calling it quits at Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati has found great peace.

New York fashion week has finally come to a close. Amen! For those less-fortunate editors and fashion authorities (or perhaps we are the lucky ones) that have not jetted off to London or Milan, we finally get a moment to recover.

In retrospect, we relished the young talents of Prabal Gurung and Jason Wu. The Observer will never forget the spectacle and grandeur of Alexander Wang—or the impeccable quality of Simon Spurr’s suiting. With such a busy social schedule and so many shows, it’s hard to remember all the garments we evaluated with a careful eye.

We’re still a smidgen bitter about a few mishaps with Oscar de la Renta and PR Consulting… but we forgive easily… Oscar might possibly have been the best women’s collection in town! Best of luck obtaining the financial means to swing the $15,000 price tag...

One thing we do recall in our hazy fatigue, is the undeniable fact that fur is back. Yes, yes it never really left! But honestly!

"It's so glamorous and luxe!" proclaimed Joan Rivers about fur, backstage at Dennis Basso.

Perhaps Ms. Rivers is in the right. Has there ever been so much mink, chinchilla, fox, raccoon, coyote, goat, rabbit, astrakhan, Mongolian lamb, ermine and sable shown in New York? Probably… but let’s peruse The Oberserver’s favorites— shall we?

Images: GETTY and Patrick McMullan.

Norma Kamali (GETTY)

This past week, fashion icon Norma Kamali presented her collection, OMO, and launched a new, more accessible diffusion line called Kamali Kulture. The Observer wanted to know the details about Farrah Fawcett’s legendary red bathing suit moment and why in God’s name she was expanding!

Charlie’s Angels! Farrah Fawcett! That iconic moment was all you! Tell us about it—looking back? This is all about Farrah, not me. She is one of the most beautiful women I have ever seen, and I have seen many extraordinary looking celebrities and great women throughout my career. She told me that she happened to have my swimsuit in her bag and her friend (the photographer) shot her in it on location. Lucky me!

Do you take credit for the shoulder pad as well?The shoulder pad became famous in the late ‘30s and ‘40s. I was obsessed with the ‘30s years ago, and when I did my collection made of sweatshirt fabric, I thought it would be cool to design [it] using ‘30s-chic sensibility in locker room fabrications.

You also revolutionized the online store? I think the idea was comfortable to me because I had a job out of school on the UNIVAC computer… so, clearly I was ready to express myself with a website in the mid ‘90s.

Norma Kamali's fall 2012 presentation (GETTY)

What is Kamali Kulture all about? Timeless style—under $100—that is sold exclusively online via my website, Amazon and Zappos.

Why the expansion? This is the time for this type of concept, and I feel strongly about online interaction with my customers and bloggers. I believe social media today is authentic, raw and passionate.

We braced for the worst on the last day of New York Fashion Week, when Calvin Klein (and KCD) sent The Observer this alarming email warning:

“As a reminder, you are confirmed to attend the Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2012 Women's show today at 2PM.  We have been made aware that the Occupy Wall Street movement has plans to stage a non-violent demonstration in the vicinity of our show.  Please note that we have taken extra security efforts to ensure the safety of our guests and that the entrance process into our venue is as seamless as usual.  In light of this, all guests will be required to show email verification of a seat assignment and a form of photo identification. Please bring both with you this afternoon.

The event will be held at 205 West 39th Street and your seat assignment is L-2-2.”

Duly noted!

The rain that day didn’t justify an umbrella (besides which we lost ours at Michael Kors…) Turns out—the PR precaution, while wise and considerate, was unnecessary as well.

“Occupy fashion week!” one pitifully quiet and tattered protester yelled as we marched past him.

Well-accustomed to the photo I.D. process by now, we dutifully cooperated before entering the pitch-black showroom.

Only two rows of seating boasted an impressive roster of fashion bigwigs, whose names were perfectly printed in each spot. Calvin Klein Eternity eau de parfum accompanied the name placards… perfect for re-gifting!

Patrick Demarchelier, Mario Sorrenti, Vinoodh Matadin and Inez van Lamsweerde sat directly in front of us!

“Tout va bien?” Mr. Demarcherlier greeted Ms. van Lamsweerde.

A quick span of the room, revealed even more glitterati. The arrivals of Lara Stone (supermodel/spokeswoman for Calvin Klein), Emma Stone and Rooney Mara gave Billy Farrell and cohorts plenty to do…

Creative director Francisco Costa has evolved the brand’s signature aesthetic to an unparalleled level of ultra-refined, minimalism. Mr. Costa didn’t disappoint for winter 2012/13 either.

The click-clack of the models’ heels was still audible over the austere soundtrack...

They wore firmly structured, glazed wool/mohair collarless coats with hammered silver belts--in exaggerated proportions. There was a weightlessness with the severity, however. On the lighter end, were shades of poppy and sienna on wool tweed shift dresses, with strong pleats. The texture of the fabrics easily conveyed their value.

Leather skirts, tops and dresses were balanced by soft cashmere—some in bold tones. What really made a statement, were the onyx embroidered, laser-cut wool separates and knotted silk embroidery bodice dresses (that glistened as if beaded appliqué).

Beautiful!

As we slowly sauntered out, it seemed that the fashion frenzy had sobered… Calvin Klein Collection was a peaceful end.

Images: Dan Lecca and Patrick McMullan.

By 9:50am Michael Kors was a mob-scene! Kors’ publicists attempted to keep the clutter to a minimum, but how can you with Jessica Alba, Anjelica Huston, Katie Couric, and Debra Messing in the front row?

“Can you make sure we get this specific shot of the seating?” The Observer begged publicist Savannah Engel…

“Excuse me! You’re in my seat—that’s my seat!” hissed a malnourished editor in row 2, to one ill-fated guest.

Good morning fashion frenzy!

“Rugged elegance…cozy textures… gutsy knits and fur…” read the run-of-show.

“What the hell does ‘Gusty knits’ mean?” questioned a befuddled Billy Morrissette.

“Not a clue,” we chuckled equally perplexed from our seat.

Then typical debate arose: who would be The Observer’s prey today. A sturdy defense force protected any significant or juicy utterance from our movie star options. Editors are far too judicious with their comments… We trekked back down to the runway to seek out someone.

“I hope it’s better than that African Safari show,” one late arrival whispered as she plowed through our path.

“Hey now! Those Mario Testino ad spreads rocked,” we yelled defensively.

Abandoning our mission, with all the fuss, we marched back…

“How far are you in your pregnancy? It’s beautiful!” The Observer overheard Rachael Zoe hum to some statuesque mother-to-be…

What a relief to make it back to section A-5—with the delectable SCENE creative director, Cricket Burns, to chew the fat with! (Naturally, there was in fact very little fat in the Lincoln Center tents that day.)

Why does Rachael Zoe bring her husband to shows?” Ms. Burns said with a justifiable eye roll.

She gets what she wants these days,” we replied all too knowingly.

“Ha Brad Goreski has a better seat,” laughed Ms. Burns.

By the time look 15 came out on Kasia—an Ivory Mongolian lamb vest, paired with an Alpaca hand-knit pullover and black/ivory tartan bias skit—we saw Ms. Zoe spasm with enough joy to give us a seizure. For safety reasons, we turned our focus back to runway, although “I die!” moments were still audible…

On the other hand, the stylist’s delight was understandable. Michael Kors’s signature take on luxurious American could not have been more brilliant. Wool/cashmere tartans, herringbone and buffalo checks came in crimson, ash, camel and black; Model Daria Strokous wore an oversized knitted Coyote cocoon coat over her ensemble to stomp down the rustic, wooden runway.

And who can forget that stellar glossy black glove leather trench with black fox vest? A black Alpaca, Teddy Bear duffle coat with toggles, catered to the intrepid man. Kors’s sheer Chantilly lace dress with a sleeveless black Melton pea coat—pure bliss! For evening, just add a touch of shine to that slouchy silhouette, with a magnificent crystal beaded jersey gown. Get a load of that Ms. Messing! Your name all over it!

“Sublime, sublime, sublime!” raved Ken Downing, fashion director at Neiman Marcus, backstage. “We always love when Michael does red, because it’s so signature to him. Tons of great fur… and I like the idea of fur being modern as a cover up! It’s not that piece that you keep in your closet that you bring out for a gala; it’s something that you can wear every day. Super glamorous, super chic! And as you know, Michael loves a glamorous woman… Amazing dresses! Michael’s dresses are just a go to for every woman…”

Who do you envision wearing them?

“My customer—every one of my customers— has a Michael Kors dress! It’s insane!”

“You live in Texas still? Or American Airlines? Something like that?”

“You’ve read my quotes! I live on American Airlines. But I pay my taxes in Texas! I pay a couple of taxes in Texas… I have a weekend house on a lake as well.”

Are you going there after? Can we come?

“I am going home literally for twelve hours… rearranging my wardrobe and flying to London!

“…I should be a spokesman for American Airlines!”

Images: Patrick McMullan and GETTY.

“If you can keep the evening stuff to a dull roar that would great! There are just so many events,” gripped Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo to a publicist at Naeem Khan’s Valentine’s Day show. [sigh] The fashion week life!

We’re content to note that she had little reason to complain after Mr. Khan presented his excellent collection of glitzy daywear and dramatic metallic gowns. “That’s perfect for Lady Obama!” pointed a transfixed assistant editor. The Observer agrees…

Ms. Obama first wore a stunning Naeem Khan gown to a state dinner for the prime minister of India, back in 2009. She went returned to the designer in 2011, to wear one of his frocks to make nice with German Chancellor, Angela Merkel. Here are five outfits we want to dress Michelle Obama in, along with the matching occasion!

Anna dello Russo (GETTY)

We arrived early for Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti at the Avery Fisher Hall. Plenty of time to take a breather and people watch. A familiar flank of top-level editors began to trickle in… Roberta Myers, Virginia Smith, Glenda Bailey—all the glossy women’s magazines were covered.

“Who’s hotter? Robbie Myers or Joanna Coles?” The Observer asked, sotto voce.

“They both look fab!” answered a model-esque writer.

Benone! Editor-at-large for Vogue Japan and Italian style-empress, Anna Dello Russo, is fast approaching.

Posso chiedere qualche domanda in inglese?” we asked.

“Certo!”

“What’s been your favorite show this season in New York?”

“Listen! Listen! It’s the second day of fashion week! You cannot tell me that one! I need to see more shows!” dello Russo rebuked in a thick Baresi accent.

Whoa! She burnt us!

(We didn't dare correct her that it was actually the second to last...)

“So you’ve just arrived?” we hesitantly continued.

I mean no! It’s just starting… it’s like two days! I mean… It’s not possible to say the best shows. Of course I saw Marc Jacobs… beautiful…but there’s no time to give a – a… you know--- Let’s see!

“We agree… What did you love about the men’s calendar in Milan? We saw you at Ferragamo—”

“No! You know what I like about men’s now? What Riccardo Tisci is doing! I think Riccardo Tisci for men’s—is doing very, very modern and strong. I think he has the leadership now!” she asserted.

(GETTY)

We loved Signora Ferretti’s gunmetal, sand and platinum super-luxurious creations–fantastic daywear couture. Her bi-color and multi-material wonders used patent leather, crystal appliqué, fur, and even translucent PVC.

…But in the end, it was our run-in with Anna Dello Russo that kept us merry.

Michael Bastian (Patrick McMullan)

“Hello!  I love your paper!” Michael Bastian’s warm greeting was more than we’d expect to hear from the fashion star at his own presentation for GANT by Michael Bastian.  Though he was encircled by handlers and a pack of press wolves, the smiling, silver-haired designer projected the charm and ease of a dinner party host sending off his guests. His blue sweater and collared shirt fit right in with his models in preppy, primary-colored sweaters, trench coats, striped shirts, and checkered sunglasses, who chatted and bounced on pedestals to the Scissor Sisters.

The centerpiece, complete with old street lamps and steady drifts of fake snow, was staged before black-and-white geometric patterns and footage of New York street scenes on the gallery’s back wall.  Long after the last ice cube had melted in our Vodka-grape juice-ginger ale, The Observer finally got a word in…

“What’s wrong with the way men dress in New York?” we wanted to know.
“There’s nothin’ wrong with the way men dress in New York!” exclaimed Mr. Bastian.

“Absolutely nothing, you wouldn’t change a thing?”
“Well… New York’s a big city [laughs].  If we have to go case-by-case...”

“You had a most-wanted list of society bachelors in the back of your run-of-show...”
“It was just kind of a funny idea.  There was this secret list of guys who any dinner hostess in New York could just slide into a party, once you needed to kind of balance it out...and I just loved that idea, that these guys are so well-dressed, and so charming, and keep the ball in the air, tell a dirty joke, and everybody wants to sit next to them...so kind of like this self-selected, amazing group of guys.  And it was from 1974.”

“Where did you get it from?”
“We were doing research on this idea of extra men, and it was a New York Times article from 1974.  And these hostesses kind of just laid it out, like these are the guys we like.”

“So it was official!”
“It was official!”

“So, who’s on your most desirable list?
“Of guuuys? [Laughs] Well, that could be taken a lot of ways...wow.  That’s...who?  You know what, right now we’re in this crazy moment of celebrity and celebrity stylists, and I never quite bought into that paid-for style, like they’re kind of told to ‘wear this.’ I’m always much more inspired by random people on the street.  I live down by NYU and The New School, and I’d almost say close your eyes and pull a student out, and they’re gonna be a little bit cooler than the average celebrity. You know, here I am, him for the common man.”

Michael’s loud and sincere chuckle was delightfully goofy…  “But I believe that,” he added.

“I’ve got to say, you have a very worldly charm about you.”
“Well, the whole phenomenon of paying a celebrity to come to your show and wear your clothes-- what’s the fun in that?”

“Any fashion week headaches?”
“No, it actually went really smoothly this time. Nothing to complain about! I can’t wait for it to be over, but honestly...”  Mr. Bastian thought hard, and added, “We had a dog in our show, and my big nightmare that that dog was gonna freak out or turn and run, but he did his job.  When you’re a designer, you don’t sleep for a week before, and you think, ‘okay, that pant’s gonna rip up the ass, and he’s not gonna have the right color underwear on...’ But it went really well.”

“And if you had to wear one other New York designer, who would you choose?”
“Well, this is the weird thing about menswear; it’s such a small world, that they’re all my buddies.  So I’m friends with Thom Browne, and Simon Spurr, and Scott from Band of Outsiders, and Adam Kimmel-- actually, we’re all in the same building, or we are in the same building, for the most part...”

KCD's darling, Hallie Chrisman. (Patrick McMullan)

Navigating the realm of fashion publication relations can be a difficult job. For in-house publicists and leading New York PR firms, such as KCD, PR Consulting, Karla Otto, Starworks, Bismarck Phillips and HL Group—fashion week is a marathon: RSVP-management, developing press releases, endless email chains, photography and artistic direction, event and runway production, front-of-house organization, seating charts and VIP affairs!

Scheduling and logistical nightmares are frequent; editor struggles occur; and drama is a guarantee. For international firms, the chaos continues in Milan and Paris. Even more maddening, some publicists have red carpet dressing to deal with for the Grammys and fast-approaching Oscars!

It took some effort, but The Observer hunted the striking Hallie Chrisman, Publicity Director at KCD— to get the scoop on what her life has been like of late…

What does fashion week equate for you?

Since I go to London and Paris it’s actually more like fashion month—to me it equates to training for a marathon, you have to make sure you don’t burn yourself out in the beginning. New York is always the most all-consuming, as we each have our own shows we individually oversee and then are staffed to work the 20-plus shows and events we handle for New York Fashion Week. Once the team goes to Europe we generally focus more on the U.S. press aspect of each client’s show, as well as providing support to any shows our Paris office is handling. So, as I said, it’s a marathon.

KCD is everywhere, with a blue-chip roster of clients! How do you balance it all?

I’m very fortunate to love what I do and where I work, however when it’s not fashion week(s) (or the CFDA Awards, or the Victoria’s Secret show, or another major project) I always make time to see friends and travel to maintain a healthy balance between my work and personal life.

When you need a break, where is your go-to for a drink or good eats during fashion week?

One Lucky Duck Juice Bar—it is located conveniently across the street from the office in Chelsea Market. I love the Strawberry Blonde shake and then I always get a ginger shot to stave off the inevitable fashion week cold.

Take us to a show—where are you? What are you doing? We saw you at Wang!

It depends on the show, at some shows I am running the backstage press and photographers, while at others you will find me inside the venue helping seat guests and greeting the editors, retailers and VIPs.

How many people try to crash shows and after parties? Any good stories?

There are always some crashers but they are pretty easy to spot and we run a pretty tight ship so we don’t get as many as you might think. Some doors—you might not get crashers per se but more fans who will just wait outside to watch and see who is entering and exiting the event. Even though they will never get in, you have to at least give them credit for their dedication.

What celebrities are incredible to work with? Is GPS like fashion week “Big Brother?”

Fashion GPS was initiated when KCD PR approached Fashion GPS President Edwin Mullon to create a cutting edge technology to control inventory management and then events management. It’s so great that most of the industry uses it so we are all on one system to make editors, retailers and our lives easier!

Which editors do you look forward to seeing during fashion week? Who has the best style?

I wouldn’t be a very good publicist if I played favorites now would I? A lot of my close friends are actually fashion editors so it’s always great to see friends and catch up (if only briefly) during fashion week.

Any fun nightlife plans? What will be the best after party?

I try to stay under the radar during New York or else I don’t think I would be able to make it through Europe; however I try and stop by my client’s after parties if I can. Jason Wu and Prabal Gurung both threw great after parties this season and then of course there was the Miu Miu party we handled and the CFDA Impact Exhibit opening party at FIT, which kicked off the year-long celebration of the CFDA ’s 50th anniversary.

Best part of being a fashion publicist?

Getting to do what I love every day and working with some of the most talented, smart and interesting minds in the industry. Plus going to London and Paris twice a year isn’t too bad either!

It’s all over! Where do you flee to rejuvenate?

I try and get away for a weekend once I get back from Paris. This season I am planning on visiting friends in Austin for a long weekend. I also always start making my summer vacation plans during fashion week in February, this summer it will be several trips to Nantucket and is also looking like a week in Turkey.

Byrdie Bell at Charlotte Ronson's winter 2012/13 runway show. (Owen Hoffmann for Patrick McMullan)

You might catch her sipping a cocktail during Miami Art Basel or front row at Charlotte Ronson, but the girl works too! Miss Bell has been featured in several, well-received independent films—and her modeling career is nothing to scoff at either! That svelte physique and those jutting collar bones have been snapped in Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, L'Official and V Magazine. The Observer just had to know what this blonde bombshell was up to for fashion week:

You’re surrounded by stylists, editors, celebs, publicists—the works! Who has your dream job this week?
The show DJs and music curators. Working with a designer to put together a seventeen-minute set that enhances the theme and atmosphere of the collection, seems like it would be a lot of fun!

Does it get exhausting? Do you have to bail on the fun sometimes?The energy surrounding fashion week is infectious and exciting. It can feel overwhelming, so I try not to look at it as an entire week. I make sure to take days off and do nothing fashion-related and avoid doing something at night if I have done something involved during the day.

What are your five must-have fashion week commodities?
SmartWater, sunglasses, Lumene 5 minute SOS Cream, my BlackBerry and ballet flats.

Now you’re still modeling, will you be working at all this week?
Everything in the industry seems to shut down in order to focus on the shows. I had a shoot scheduled for Thursday and one pending, but the first has been rescheduled and other postponed due to fashion week craziness.

I hear rumors about some fun nightlife plans? What will be the best after-party?
My agency ONE Management always throws the best parties. Tonight they are hosting one at Electric Room with Vs. magazine that I’m excited for.

If you could co-host a fantasy fashion week event, what would it be?
I’ve had dreams about designing a collection with the late Michael Jackson. There are so many creative avenues outside of music that I wish we had gotten to see him explore. Obviously he’d have to do a private show at the after party!