Oh No He Didn't
There’s a simmering fashion feud percolating between New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn and Hedi Slimane, the designer who has taken over Yves Saint Laurent and is widely credited with Dior Homme’s skinny silhouette. The beef led to Ms. Horyn not being invited to the YSL show, which didn’t stop her from reviewing it in The New York Times on the Runway blog using publicly available photos. Needless to say, her take wasn’t overwhelmingly positive.
“I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004—not about him but Raf Simons,” wrote Ms. Horyn.
As best we can tell, the deliberate non-invitation was a result of Ms. Horyn’s doubts about the origins of the skinny-silhouetted suit.
American fashion design has seen an exciting new crop of talented youngsters creep onto the scene. Creatives such as Joseph Altuzarra, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Jason Wu and Prabal Gurung have received a great deal of attention—and rightfully so. The majority of this bunch thrive on fanfare—not always on the design of their clothes, but on their front-rows, frantic check-ins and backstage dramas.
The Proenza Schouler duo, after several seemingly shaky years, have quickly become darlings of the global fashion elite, continually present interesting and attractive collections. Now sitting more comfortably with financial investments from Theory Group’s Andrew Rosen and a glossy new David Adjaye-designed boutique (albeit too damn dark to see any of the merch), its safe to say they are no longer emerging.
Mr. Altuzarra’s nomadic, opulent materials and prints seem to satiate the critics. Since PR Consulting has never invited us to one of his magical shows, we’ll let him be.
Jason Wu’s nearly flawless technique and practical glamour—not to mention being a favorite of first lady Michelle Obama—means he’s fine and dandy.
Same for Thakoon Panichgul.
Fashion Week Observed
Sunday afternoon at the Tents is always a scene. The climax is when legendary designer/aristocrat, Diane von Fürstenberg takes the stage. CFDA President-regnant; she is fashion royalty and attracts a fitting crowd:
Olivier Zahm from Purple magazine carried on with Terry Richardson…
“Could we get a word with you, Mr. Richardson?” we asked.
“No!” was Read More
Fashion Week Observed
Julie Ragolia has seen more stars in their skivvies than you could dream of! After sinking her teeth at MTV and a slew of glossies eons ago, she moved up the nasty and competitive ladder of fashion editorial… These days, she serves as the fashion editor of 7th Man Magazine and styles mega-stars, such as Rihanna and Sean Combs. Despite his Napoleon complex, street photo Scott Schuman even made her the cover girl of his treasured tome, The Satorialist. The Observer tried to find out if she gets to sleep with any celebs and what exactly stylists do aside from playing with clothes and acting bitchy in the Prada showroom…
The actress Eva Mendes arrived at Parsons the New School for Design 2009 Fashion Benefit at Cipriani Wall Street on Wednesday, April 29, in one of Calvin Klein‘s charcoal, minimalist dresses from the fall 2009 collection. Someone in the crowd had yelled out that they liked it. And Ms. Mendes, brushing a strand of hair Read More
The Village Voice has laid off legendary fashion writer Lynn Yaeger. [Fashionista]
Cathy Horyn gets to the bottom of what’s wrong with Vogue. (Summary: The magazine has gotten sort of boring.) [NYT]
The clothing company established for Kira Plastinina, the 16-year-old daughter of Russian billionaire Sergei Plastinin, Read More
In Milan, where fashion week is currently underway, Giorgio Armani recently decided to ban Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn from his show, which took place last night. Aside from the 73-year-old designer’s apparent displeasure with Mr. Horyn’s write up of events preceding the show (and, perhaps, an unflattering comment she made about one Read More
At the Marc Jacobs spring 2008 runway show last fall, painter John Currin spoke to Times fashionista Cathy Horyn about the designer’s collection: “So often when sex is done in fashion, it’s what is hard, interchangeable and jaded. This seemed very romantic,” Mr. Currin said at the time.
The Devil Wears Read More
In an effort to discover just how much fashion has changed over the last decade, we stumbled across this Charlie Rose interview with Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour. It was conducted in September of 1995, which gives it a kind of fascinating edge. Ms. Wintour also comes across as rather endearing, which is sort of Read More
The Transom was rudely rejected from up-and-coming design hotshot Alexander Wang’s show at Bumble & Bumble’s Meatpacking District salon this afternoon, despite the fact that we were on the list—and we weren’t the only ones.
This fiasco owed to a most unwelcome last-minute guest: the city’s Fire Marshal, who made it his business to ensure Read More