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	<title>Observer &#187; Christophe Pillet</title>
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		<title>Observer &#187; Christophe Pillet</title>
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		<title>Waverly Inn Chef John DeLucie, Macin&#8217; and Cheesin&#8217; in Full Book-Tour Mode</title>

		<comments>http://observer.com/2009/05/waverly-inn-chef-john-delucie-macin-and-cheesin-in-full-booktour-mode/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 May 2009 14:36:42 -0400</pubDate>
					<link>http://observer.com/2009/05/waverly-inn-chef-john-delucie-macin-and-cheesin-in-full-booktour-mode/</link>
			<dc:creator>Chris Shott</dc:creator>
				
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		<description><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignleft" src="http://nyoobserver.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/johndelucie.jpg?w=237&h=300" />Chef <strong>John DeLucie</strong> has been serving celebrities at <strong>Graydon Carter</strong>'s exclusive Waverly Inn since November 2006. Lately, he's been soaking up the spotlight himself.</p>
<p><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 10]&gt; &lt;!   /* Style Definitions */  table.MsoNormalTable 	{mso-style-name:&quot;Table Normal&quot;; 	mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; 	mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; 	mso-style-noshow:yes; 	mso-style-parent:&quot;&quot;; 	mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; 	mso-para-margin:0in; 	mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; 	mso-pagination:widow-orphan; 	font-size:10.0pt; 	font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;; 	mso-ansi-language:#0400; 	mso-fareast-language:#0400; 	mso-bidi-language:#0400;} --> <!--[endif]--><span>"Someone, somehow told <strong>Hugh Jackman</strong> that I was doing the food for Graydon&rsquo;s <em>Vanity Fair</em> Oscar Party," Mr. DeLucie told the Daily Transom. "So I walk over to his table and Hugh Jackman says, &lsquo;Hey, I hear we both have Oscar gigs.'"</span></p>
<p><span>The affable chef was dumbfounded. "</span><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--><span>Is there a bigger star than Hugh Jackman right now?"</span></p>
<p><span>On Thursday evening, May 14, the 47-year-old Long Island native, dressed comfortably in jeans, a blue blazer, and gray hoodie, lounged on a semi-circular yellow sofa, under an imposing <strong>Christophe Pillet</strong>-designed chandelier of hand-blown glass raindrops, signing copies of his new book, </span><em>The Hunger: A Story of Food, Desire, Ambition, </em>and posing for photos with a bevy of beautiful young models, at French designer <strong>Catherine Malandrino</strong>'s posh boutique at 652 Hudson Street<em>. <br /></em></p>
<p>"This is the genius of Ecco," he said, referring to the Harper Collins imprint that published his memoir, "and their special events marketing division. They do parties in non-conventional places."</p>
<p>Throughout the evening,<em> </em>a fashionable crowd mingled around the Patron table, lining up for margaritas, martinis and a mixed vodka drink called the "grape ape," while regular customers continued to shop and push their way past partiers into the fitting rooms.</p>
<p>"I've been a friend of John's and a fan of his cuisine," explained the shop's proprietor and occasional <em>Project Runway</em> guest judge, Ms. Malandrino. "I was one of the first guests at the Waverly...I think I've become addicted." (She's apparently a big fan of the grilled fish--particularly the non-decapitated version. "I like the visual of the head on it," she said. "It's very French.")</p>
<p>Earlier in the day, Mr. DeLucie appeared on NBC's <em>Today </em>show, giving weatherman <strong>Al Roker</strong> a tutorial on how to make a frittata. Mr. Roker asked him to explain the Waverly's popularity. Mr. DeLucie offered two reasons--the food is good, and the proprietor, Mr. Carter, is famous.<em><br /></em></p>
<p>The Daily Transom wanted to know: is the food at Waverly really <em>that</em> good?</p>
<p><em>New York Times</em> critic <strong>Frank Bruni</strong> awarded the flashy venue <a href="http://events.nytimes.com/2007/01/24/dining/reviews/24rest.html?pagewanted=1">only a single star</a>.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">"I think the food is very accessible," Mr. DeLucie said. "You go there, the menu says roast chicken and you get a great roast chicken. It delivers on its promise. I think that&rsquo;s why it&rsquo;s so popular."</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Much of the initial buzz about the Waverly surrounded its cost-prohibitive macaroni and cheese with truffles, advertised at an astounding $55 a pop.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mr. DeLucie pointed out that's actually just the <em>base price</em>, depending on the cost of its highly sought-after seasonal ingredient. <!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]&gt; &lt;!   /* Style Definitions */  table.MsoNormalTable 	{mso-style-name:&quot;Table Normal&quot;; 	mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; 	mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; 	mso-style-noshow:yes; 	mso-style-parent:&quot;&quot;; 	mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; 	mso-para-margin:0in; 	mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; 	mso-pagination:widow-orphan; 	font-size:10.0pt; 	font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;; 	mso-ansi-language:#0400; 	mso-fareast-language:#0400; 	mso-bidi-language:#0400;} --> <!--[endif]--><span>"When the truffles are $3,000, it goes up to $95," he noted. (Right now is the cheapest time to order, he added.)</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--> <span>"What people don&rsquo;t realize is, if you go to Da Silvano and order pasta with butter and truffles on top, it&rsquo;s $125," Mr. DeLucie said. "So, it&rsquo;s a bargain at the Waverly!"</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Mr. DeLucie has been working on his book for almost five years, beginning when he was a cook at La Bottega at the Maritime Hotel. (Maritime owners <strong>Sean MacPherson</strong> and <strong>Eric Goode</strong> are also Mr. Carter's partners in the Waverly.) "</span><!--[endif]--><span>It wasn&rsquo;t a Waverly book on its inception--it became a Waverly book," he said, laughing.<br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>"I was very committed to making the book funny," Mr. DeLucie noted. No easy task. "</span><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]-->W<span>hich is why I needed expertise," he said. So he turned to longtime pal and writer <strong>Ken Carlton</strong>. </span><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--> <span>"He&rsquo;s a good friend of mine--much funnier than me," Mr. DeLucie said. "</span><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]-->I would toil over my Apple at Morandi every day and he would structure it for me. And we&rsquo;d fight. I would say, 'It&rsquo;s an <em>and</em>!&rsquo; And he&rsquo;d say, 'No, man, it&rsquo;s an <em>or</em>!'"</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mr. DeLucie intended the book to be "aspirational," he said. "<!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]&gt; &lt;!   /* Style Definitions */  table.MsoNormalTable 	{mso-style-name:&quot;Table Normal&quot;; 	mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; 	mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; 	mso-style-noshow:yes; 	mso-style-parent:&quot;&quot;; 	mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; 	mso-para-margin:0in; 	mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; 	mso-pagination:widow-orphan; 	font-size:10.0pt; 	font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;; 	mso-ansi-language:#0400; 	mso-fareast-language:#0400; 	mso-bidi-language:#0400;} --><span>Because I was a corporate drone. I was a headhunter for the insurance industries. Awful! I did it for four years until I was 30. Eventually I said, 'I can&rsquo;t do this one more day. I can&rsquo;t put on a suit and I can&rsquo;t shave one more day.' And I had this Italian background. I was cooking at home as a hobby. I decided I&rsquo;d take this little class at the New School. And I found out I have the aptitude for cooking. I got my first job at Dean &amp; Deluca, slicing prosciutto. So I hope someone will read it and say, 'You know, there&rsquo;s something I want to do and if this idiot can do it, I can too.'"</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">For the moment, Mr. DeLucie said he was happy to be out of the kitchen and in "full book tour mode," noting, "<!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--><span>I can drink tonight, although my Diet Coke is mocking me right now." </span></p>
]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignleft" src="http://nyoobserver.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/johndelucie.jpg?w=237&h=300" />Chef <strong>John DeLucie</strong> has been serving celebrities at <strong>Graydon Carter</strong>'s exclusive Waverly Inn since November 2006. Lately, he's been soaking up the spotlight himself.</p>
<p><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 10]&gt; &lt;!   /* Style Definitions */  table.MsoNormalTable 	{mso-style-name:&quot;Table Normal&quot;; 	mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; 	mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; 	mso-style-noshow:yes; 	mso-style-parent:&quot;&quot;; 	mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; 	mso-para-margin:0in; 	mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; 	mso-pagination:widow-orphan; 	font-size:10.0pt; 	font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;; 	mso-ansi-language:#0400; 	mso-fareast-language:#0400; 	mso-bidi-language:#0400;} --> <!--[endif]--><span>"Someone, somehow told <strong>Hugh Jackman</strong> that I was doing the food for Graydon&rsquo;s <em>Vanity Fair</em> Oscar Party," Mr. DeLucie told the Daily Transom. "So I walk over to his table and Hugh Jackman says, &lsquo;Hey, I hear we both have Oscar gigs.'"</span></p>
<p><span>The affable chef was dumbfounded. "</span><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--><span>Is there a bigger star than Hugh Jackman right now?"</span></p>
<p><span>On Thursday evening, May 14, the 47-year-old Long Island native, dressed comfortably in jeans, a blue blazer, and gray hoodie, lounged on a semi-circular yellow sofa, under an imposing <strong>Christophe Pillet</strong>-designed chandelier of hand-blown glass raindrops, signing copies of his new book, </span><em>The Hunger: A Story of Food, Desire, Ambition, </em>and posing for photos with a bevy of beautiful young models, at French designer <strong>Catherine Malandrino</strong>'s posh boutique at 652 Hudson Street<em>. <br /></em></p>
<p>"This is the genius of Ecco," he said, referring to the Harper Collins imprint that published his memoir, "and their special events marketing division. They do parties in non-conventional places."</p>
<p>Throughout the evening,<em> </em>a fashionable crowd mingled around the Patron table, lining up for margaritas, martinis and a mixed vodka drink called the "grape ape," while regular customers continued to shop and push their way past partiers into the fitting rooms.</p>
<p>"I've been a friend of John's and a fan of his cuisine," explained the shop's proprietor and occasional <em>Project Runway</em> guest judge, Ms. Malandrino. "I was one of the first guests at the Waverly...I think I've become addicted." (She's apparently a big fan of the grilled fish--particularly the non-decapitated version. "I like the visual of the head on it," she said. "It's very French.")</p>
<p>Earlier in the day, Mr. DeLucie appeared on NBC's <em>Today </em>show, giving weatherman <strong>Al Roker</strong> a tutorial on how to make a frittata. Mr. Roker asked him to explain the Waverly's popularity. Mr. DeLucie offered two reasons--the food is good, and the proprietor, Mr. Carter, is famous.<em><br /></em></p>
<p>The Daily Transom wanted to know: is the food at Waverly really <em>that</em> good?</p>
<p><em>New York Times</em> critic <strong>Frank Bruni</strong> awarded the flashy venue <a href="http://events.nytimes.com/2007/01/24/dining/reviews/24rest.html?pagewanted=1">only a single star</a>.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">"I think the food is very accessible," Mr. DeLucie said. "You go there, the menu says roast chicken and you get a great roast chicken. It delivers on its promise. I think that&rsquo;s why it&rsquo;s so popular."</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Much of the initial buzz about the Waverly surrounded its cost-prohibitive macaroni and cheese with truffles, advertised at an astounding $55 a pop.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mr. DeLucie pointed out that's actually just the <em>base price</em>, depending on the cost of its highly sought-after seasonal ingredient. <!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]&gt; &lt;!   /* Style Definitions */  table.MsoNormalTable 	{mso-style-name:&quot;Table Normal&quot;; 	mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; 	mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; 	mso-style-noshow:yes; 	mso-style-parent:&quot;&quot;; 	mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; 	mso-para-margin:0in; 	mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; 	mso-pagination:widow-orphan; 	font-size:10.0pt; 	font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;; 	mso-ansi-language:#0400; 	mso-fareast-language:#0400; 	mso-bidi-language:#0400;} --> <!--[endif]--><span>"When the truffles are $3,000, it goes up to $95," he noted. (Right now is the cheapest time to order, he added.)</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--> <span>"What people don&rsquo;t realize is, if you go to Da Silvano and order pasta with butter and truffles on top, it&rsquo;s $125," Mr. DeLucie said. "So, it&rsquo;s a bargain at the Waverly!"</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Mr. DeLucie has been working on his book for almost five years, beginning when he was a cook at La Bottega at the Maritime Hotel. (Maritime owners <strong>Sean MacPherson</strong> and <strong>Eric Goode</strong> are also Mr. Carter's partners in the Waverly.) "</span><!--[endif]--><span>It wasn&rsquo;t a Waverly book on its inception--it became a Waverly book," he said, laughing.<br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>"I was very committed to making the book funny," Mr. DeLucie noted. No easy task. "</span><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]-->W<span>hich is why I needed expertise," he said. So he turned to longtime pal and writer <strong>Ken Carlton</strong>. </span><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--> <span>"He&rsquo;s a good friend of mine--much funnier than me," Mr. DeLucie said. "</span><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]-->I would toil over my Apple at Morandi every day and he would structure it for me. And we&rsquo;d fight. I would say, 'It&rsquo;s an <em>and</em>!&rsquo; And he&rsquo;d say, 'No, man, it&rsquo;s an <em>or</em>!'"</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mr. DeLucie intended the book to be "aspirational," he said. "<!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]&gt; &lt;!   /* Style Definitions */  table.MsoNormalTable 	{mso-style-name:&quot;Table Normal&quot;; 	mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; 	mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; 	mso-style-noshow:yes; 	mso-style-parent:&quot;&quot;; 	mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; 	mso-para-margin:0in; 	mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; 	mso-pagination:widow-orphan; 	font-size:10.0pt; 	font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;; 	mso-ansi-language:#0400; 	mso-fareast-language:#0400; 	mso-bidi-language:#0400;} --><span>Because I was a corporate drone. I was a headhunter for the insurance industries. Awful! I did it for four years until I was 30. Eventually I said, 'I can&rsquo;t do this one more day. I can&rsquo;t put on a suit and I can&rsquo;t shave one more day.' And I had this Italian background. I was cooking at home as a hobby. I decided I&rsquo;d take this little class at the New School. And I found out I have the aptitude for cooking. I got my first job at Dean &amp; Deluca, slicing prosciutto. So I hope someone will read it and say, 'You know, there&rsquo;s something I want to do and if this idiot can do it, I can too.'"</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">For the moment, Mr. DeLucie said he was happy to be out of the kitchen and in "full book tour mode," noting, "<!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;  Normal 0   false false false        MicrosoftInternetExplorer4  &lt;![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]&gt;   &lt;![endif]--><span>I can drink tonight, although my Diet Coke is mocking me right now." </span></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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