Three weeks ago, on a Thursday, shortly after lunch service at Oceana, the elegant seafood restaurant on East 54th Street, a short, slight man in a business suit presented himself to the receptionist and inquired, in an unmistakable French accent, if he could have a word with the manager.
Paul McLaughlin, the restaurant’s managing partner, Read More
Fricassee of Thai snapper with frogs’ legs, porcini and ham “jus” … pheasant with blueberries and chocolate sauce … coffee-crusted sirloin steak.
These are just a few of the undeniably creative dishes that I have sampled over the past two months in and outside of New York City. Two weeks ago, while gnawing on my Read More
“How do chefs think up such things?” asked my mother over the telephone from England. I’d just told her what I’d had for dinner the previous night at Oceana: skate stuffed with pastrami, trout with kimchee and lily bulbs, and tuna tartare with horseradish sorbet.
“They imagine different tastes and try to put them together,” Read More
