By Moira Hodgson 12/08/97 12:00am

My Year in the C.I.A.:Infiltrating the Foodies

The Making of a Chef , by Michael Ruhlman. Henry Holt and Company, $27.50, 305 pages.

Several years ago, I had a meal of a lifetime at Marc Meneau’s three-star restaurant, Auberge à l’Espérance, in Vezelay, Burgundy. We began lunch with fried Marenne oysters topped with caviar and went on to morels cooked in Read More