“Your amuse bouches,” the waiter said, setting down a plate of white plastic spoons whose filling glistened like a display of jewels. “Vodka gelée with sour cream, salmon roe, fried capers and chives.”
So much going on in one tiny mouthful! Our minds were racing. Yet each element of this fleeting palate teaser was Read More
“Sheep Dip is a blend,” said the waiter at Belcourt. “Pig’s Nose is single malt.”
He was talking about the unusual whiskies on offer at this new East Village bistro. Whatever they were called, my companion badly needed a glass, and not just because of the bitter cold outside. In the middle of the Read More
I was barely 7 when my family moved to Beirut, but I still remember the food: the fried kibbeh (meatballs with bulghur), the kefte (meatballs again, cooked on skewers over charcoal in our kitchen) and the vine leaves that I was allowed to help stuff with rice, wrapping them into small, untidy packages.
We Read More
“Bring me a cup of Ovaltine,” Jackie Gleason once told a waiter. “I want to be asleep when the bill comes.”
Tell me about it. The cost of eating out rose dramatically in 2007. Food prices went up faster than at any point in the past 15 years, according to Food Arts magazine, partly Read More
“Are you still working on those?”
The waiter surveyed our table, which was littered with small dishes of Greenmarket vegetables.
Yep. Still workin’.
Down on the farm, the term “back forty” describes the small undeveloped lot on a 160-acre homestead where you go not to work but to relax after a Read More
No chef worth his hand-harvested sea salt would open a New York restaurant today that’s not ruthlessly seasonal, using produce from local farms. To this end, Irving Mill is certainly well placed, being barely half a block from the Union Square Greenmarket.
The space that used to be Candela has been transformed into a Read More
“Where have you brought me?” asked my companion, stepping onto an empty plastic water bottle as he alighted from the cab. He hadn’t been down to this part of the Lower East Side for years. Well, things have changed. At the intersection of Allen and Delancey Streets, there is the obligatory Starbucks, and the old Read More
Tailor, opened by star pastry chef Sam Mason, is behind an unmarked door in a 19th-century building on Broome Street that was originally the home of the American Nut & Screw company. You enter into a dark, clubby dining room hung with small crystal chandeliers and lined with booths and brown corduroy banquettes. The walls Read More
The legendary Sandro, all of 6-foot-4, makes his stately passage through the dining room in a white T-shirt and outsize pants that look like pajamas. Tonight they are patterned with blue, pink and yellow dots (last week it was green and turquoise peacock feathers). The genial chef and host, who has close-cropped hair, a beard Read More
Pamplona is not decorated with toreador posters, hanging hams or even a single photograph of Ernest Hemingway in white pants. But at the bar of this new Spanish restaurant near Park Avenue South, you can order a calimocho, the mixture of red wine and Coca-Cola that traditionally acts as a spur for those who run Read More
