Pilati and Golbin.

“You can find greatness everywhere. You just have to look for it,” said Harper’s Bazaar editrix, Glenda Bailey, quoting former Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati in a brief, prepared introduction. Ms. Bailey had been charged with welcoming the recently departed YSL designer to the stage as a part of French Institute Alliance Française’s Fashion Talks program. (Other fashion stalwarts this year include former president and executive creative direct of Coach, Reed Krakoff and designer Dries van Noten.)

With considerable buzz about Mr. Pilati’s exit after ten years at Yves Saint Laurent—one which had been the subject of many rumors—it was inevitable that the elephant in the room would be addressed. A throng of eager YSL devotees crowded Florence Gould Hall to witness Pamela Golbin, chief curator of Paris’ Musée de la Mode et du Textile, in conversation with Mr. Pilati.

The dashing Milanese, clad elegantly in a blazer, neck-foulard and thin-rimmed sunglasses, was greeted with much applause as he took his seat on stage. Mr. Pilati’s comfortable grin gave the impression that he had little to hide behind his shades… Thankfully Ms. Golbin started right away with the big question. Four weeks have passed since Mr. Pilati broke ties with the PPR mega-brand and Ms. Golbin inquired about how he was holding up. “I have a great state of mind! I’m really good, which is very unusual for me,” Mr. Pilati replied earnestly. He said that with his new found freedom, he has his “career in his hands.”

The Observer didn’t get too much more on the situation, except that the designer seems content with his numerous accomplishments and not having to dwell on the future: “I haven’t planned anymore,” Mr. Pilati told Ms. Golbin about his next professional step.

The designer with Glenda Bailey.

Most of Tuesday’s talk focused on Mr. Pilati’s quick ascension to the top of the high fashion world: From his internship with Nino Cerruti to his work at Giorgio Armani in men’s ready-to-wear (1993-95) and then a stint in Prada’s fabric research department, before becoming Miuccia Prada’s right hand man at Miu Miu (1995-2000). Mr. Pilati demonstrated a natural talent for selecting fabrics and navigated the politics of the design world well. It came as second nature for him— common sense—as if “to cook pasta without water!” Mr. Pilati credits Signora Prada as one of his major inspirations and mentors. The atmosphere at Prada though, was more familial than at Yves Saint Laurent, the designer stated. Prada was about the meaning whereas YSL was about managing an image. Mr. Pilati started at the famed French maison in 2000, working under Tom Ford, an experience he called challenging, but which gave him great confidence. Mr. Pilati was charged with reviving declining sales at the fashion empire and making YSL profitable, which meant creating “what the market was asking for.” Accessories became the principal solution and to this day, some of Mr. Pilati’s most memorable creations are iconic shoes and bags. He said the learning process of making coveted accessories as a highlight of his tenure at YSL, where he served as creative director from 2004 until this March.

Mr. Pilati describes himself as a passionate and complex person who loves to be spontaneous. These characteristics certainly influenced Mr. Pilati’s prêt-à-porter designs at Yves Saint Laurent and his work was not always adored by critics or the legendary founder himself. “To be controversial makes people think… there is always criticism… A controversy makes people stop… they can think what they want.” However, the passing of Mr. Saint Laurent in 2008 “gave me freedom,” Mr. Pilati confessed.

“If fashion was elegant it would be nicer to walk around and see people,” Mr. Pilati concluded with élan. When asked how the fashion world should remember his decade at Yves Saint Laurent, the designer commented that he doesn’t need any fanfare to commemorate his work,” Fashion is a privileged place.” Mr. Pilati’s words highlight his contentment with his achievements and the generous lifestyle he leads. It seems that despite all the fuss of calling it quits at Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati has found great peace.

Julie Ragolia and Carlos Campos at his autumn 2011 presentation.

Julie Ragolia has seen more stars in their skivvies than you could dream of! After sinking her teeth at MTV and a slew of glossies eons ago, she moved up the nasty and competitive ladder of fashion editorial... These days, she serves as the fashion editor of 7th Man Magazine and styles mega-stars, such as Rihanna and Sean Combs. Despite his Napoleon complex, street photo Scott Schuman even made her the cover girl of his treasured tome, The Satorialist. The Observer tried to find out if she gets to sleep with any celebs and what exactly stylists do aside from playing with clothes and acting bitchy in the Prada showroom...How did you become a stylist?

It just sort of happened, really. I didn't intend to become a stylist, but I guess it was meant to be. A series of steps toward an academic future in philosophy, with a deep concentration on aesthetics, mixed with some youthful curiosity and a story to tell, led me to a very extended study of fashion as an art form, with clothes as my medium.

Fashion week must be chaotic for you-- what does this season bring?

This is the most fun chaos. I feel lucky everyday for my job, and styling shows is the icing on the cake. This season I am styling two shows: Carlos Campos, with whom I have been collaborating for four seasons now, and TheGreenShow. TheGreenShow is especially exciting for me, as it's the first time designers working in a decidedly conscious, ethical manner are showing at the tents. It's a group show of 8 women's designers, including United Bamboo, who are creating beautiful clothes in consideration of such things as environment, fair working conditions, artisan craft and local production. Hopefully this show will take some of the stigma out of terms like "eco" or "bio", so that such considerations are no longer even a part of our thinking...they just are.

Being a stylist isn't all parties and glamour—what do people not understand about the gig?

That it's a lot of work! You're right, it's not all parties and glamour; it's consideration, and research, and a deep, constant study of the craft, not to mention keeping on top of art, music and all things political in order to keep viewpoints continually fresh and interesting. And sometimes there's a lot of stuff to lug around. Being a stylist is my gym.

What designers inspire you? Who is hot in your mind right now?

I'm inspired by so many designers, but season after season I always come back to Raf Simons and Dries van Noten as inspirations. Both capture the ability to be loud and quiet at once. It's an immense skill, and something I always try to achieve in my styling work.

What's your most awful experience as a stylist? What's stressful?

I'd  be lying if I said I never had an awful experience as a stylist, but they're so few and far between that it's not even worth mentioning. I'm really grateful to be able to tell stories with clothes, and so appreciative that people like what I do that, even if there is a bad moment, I know there will be just as equal a good one to follow. In terms of stress, I think the only real stresses are those I place on myself to always do better, to hit harder. And customs issues at crunch time.

If you had a dream offer to style—who would it be?

That's a hard one! I've styled quite a few from my dream list already...I saw David Beckham in his underwear before he was on the side of H&M bags. I'd love to style someone like Tilda Swinton, who has such powerful presence. She has such distinct style unto herself, that it would be an intimidating but fun challenge. I did tweet recently that I would love to tweak Drake's style. He has so much potential.

Where has the market developed for stylists?

Media has opened the door for stylists to have a greater public presence beyond fashion. We star in commercials, we host events, we collaborate with brands, etc. And as we ourselves become a brand, our images compel some of us to the level of celebrity. It's a crazy phenomenon, really.

What are your social plans? Any good after parties?

I haven't been to Le Baron yet since it opened, even though it's just near my apartment! I'm horrible about going out in the winter, but am looking forward to fashion week pulling me out of my hibernation. I'm also looking forward to celebrating Anna Bauer's book, Backstage, at the New Museum.

Where does a stylist shop?

I think it's more about how a stylist shops, to which I would answer, "unintentionally." I never really go out of my way to shop, but I know I do it because new clothes consistently appear in my closet. I do still get giddy every time I walk through Barney's though.

What sucks about fashion?

If anything, that some of the emphasis has shifted to popularity over content or talent with the infiltration of bloggers or personalities into every aspect of the industry. I'll forever stay a stickler to the analytical thinking of great fashion journalists like Cathy Horyn, Tim Blanks and the likes, as opposed to personal opinions in quips, or anecdotal self-dressing.

Ms. Gyllenhaal was approached by a tabloid reporter who asked her if her little daughter, 2-year-old Ramona, likes rummaging through her closet.

"I'm sorry, who are you interviewing me for?" Ms. Gyllenhaal asked. The Transom couldn't quite make out the answer, but then overheard: "Oh, you know, I'm sorry. The ones with the paparazzi pictures I just try to avoid," she said, starting to move away. "I know it's not your fault."

Ms. Gyllenhaal told the Transom that she would not be attending Fashion Week because her daughter is starting school, but wanted to be here for Mr. van Noten. "I'm a huge fan of Dries' clothes. I love them. I wear them all the time. I think he's my favorite. I felt like he's given me so many beautiful clothes and designed things for me and I really wanted to give something back to him."

They're not lunch buddies or anything. "I don't think we've ever actually met! We always talk on the phone," she said.

Nearby, the designer Phillip Lim was making the rounds. Mr. Lim is doing a men's and a women's show this year. "Being here is surreal right now. I just gussied myself up and ran from the fittings," he said. 

The Transom wondered what he thought of the state of Fashion Week, a topic that has gotten much attention from designers and CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg.

"You have to have Fashion Week because [otherwise] there is no reason for us. You would be taking away the lifeline," said Mr. Lim. "As far as shipments, I think the constant rush is a bit much. It should go back to being closer to the seasons."

And what about Fashion Week becoming too consumer- and celebrity-oriented?

"I think it depends on your mindset. If you want to have a party, have a party, but just prioritize and compartmentalize," he replied. 

The supermodel Iman, who was hosting a raffle with Barneys' [and Observer columnist] Simon Doonan, said she was not attending shows at all this year, but she would be stopping by Rachel Roy, Stella McCartney, Dior and Barneys for Fashion's Night Out. We asked whether she thought models look different nowadays.

"No! I'm a huge fan of today's young models like Raquel Zimmerman and Chanel Iman and Coco Rocha," she replied. "Everyone always says, 'They don't make models like they used to,' but I have no idea what they're talking about!"

When Ms. Gyllenhaal went up to present the award, she got shy. "I am a little nervous about being here today because I am not officially a part of the fashion world, but I like clothes a lot," she began. She proceeded to tell a story about the time she asked Mr. van Noten to design her wedding dress in May for her wedding in Italy to actor Peter Sarsgaard. She described exactly what she wanted over the phone. But when the frock arrived a week before the wedding: "This is nothing like what I was picturing!" she thought. And not in a good way.

But a week later, when Ms. Gyllenhaal took Mr. van Noten's creation out of the box again and put it on, she changed her mind. "It's like he knows better than I do what is beautiful and sexy on me!"