Stein’s pick: One of the pleasures of watching Floyd Mayweather fight is how well he adjusts mid-fight. It’s a tough thing to do, to let go of one strategy and embrace another. Ignacio Mattos flamed out at Isa back in 2012. His food there was too weird, brilliant yet remote. After a brief hibernation, he opened Estela with Thomas Carter as a changed chef. Still brilliant, but now accessible, Mr. Mattos’ ability to evolve, to realize he could be true to his own vision while altering it, earns him Chef of the Year. Read More
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