Any follower of recent restaurant palace intrigue will remember Ignacio Mattos, the Uruguayan chef and co-owner of the new restaurant Estela, from IsaGate 2012. A recap: in 2011, Freeman’s handsome ogre Taavo Somer opened Isa, the woodsy Williamsburg restaurant, with Mr. Mattos in the kitchen.
Mr. Mattos’s very strange food drew widespread accolades—the menu reminded Read More
The food media, having little in the way of hard news to work with, traffics in trend stories, and these are never more appealing than during this season. Stories are bound to appear about this year’s genius chef plying his magic tweezers, or hyperbolic odes to the year’s “epic tasting menu.”
One thing you can expect every 2012 wrap-up to include, from now through New Year’s, is the annual tall tale about Brooklyn’s coming of age as a restaurant capital. It’s an irresistible story, bound to please Brooklynites and fool huckleberries in the hinterlands, and it has much-needed youthful sex appeal as well; food writers see Brooklyn as a gritty reboot of a story they long ago tired of telling about Manhattan. But here’s the thing: Brooklyn, taken as a restaurant city, sucks.