To Live and Dine in N.Y.

Midway through our meal at the restaurant Daniel–after the caviar and tiny rosettes of salmon tartar, after the rolled fillets of Portuguese sardines filled with sweet peppers, and after a few glasses of white and red Châteauneuf du Pape–I asked Jean-Louis Palladin what goes through his mind when he is in the kitchen.

Mr. Palladin–the Read More