Do Not Send Back This Man’s Soup

Location: You’ve established this reputation as a pioneer—a neighborhood-changer—with Odeon in Tribeca, Pastis in meatpacking, Schiller’s on the Lower East Side, to name a few. Conversely, your newest ventures seem to be centered in some rather well-established parts of town. Has all the culinary frontier in downtown Manhattan been gobbled up?

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Cucina de Balthazar

As he did with Balthazar, Keith McNally has once again set a stage where the play is about eating and the actors are the diners. This time it’s not a Paris bistro, but a rustic trattoria somewhere in the hills of Italy. Morandi’s low, beamed ceiling is hung with wooden chandeliers topped with small brown Read More

Dining Out With Moira Hodgson

Another Scene on the Scene:

Trattoria Strikes Pose in Chelsea

It was a freezing night, and the wind lashed across the icy terrace of the Maritime Hotel, where empty tables, bereft of chairs and striped umbrellas, made the scene as forlorn as a beach resort in winter. The cold was so intense that the Read More

Dining out with Moira Hodgson

Five Years Later,

Soho Brasserie Is Still Abuzz

Following Sept. 11 last year, Balthazar closed for three days. The staff joined the relief effort and cooked for the rescue workers, delivering food to Ground Zero. Business was slow for the next two months, as it was for all restaurants downtown, where many have since Read More

It’s Souk or Swim Time In the Meatpacking District

It’s strange how a distinctive smell can evoke strong memories of times long past. When our waiter handed us the menus at Zitoune, a new Moroccan restaurant in the center of the meatpacking district, I was immediately transported to the alleyways of the medina in Marrakesh. It was the same sharp odor that assails you Read More

A Bistro at Full Tilt Where the Kitchen Means Business

Balthazar

** 1/2

80 Spring Street, between Broadway and Crosby Street

965-1414

Dress: Chic

Noise level: High

Wine list: French, with good prices and selections from lesser-known regions

Credit cards: All major

Price range: Breakfast $3 to $6, lunch main courses $9 to $22, dinner $16 to $24

Hours: Daily 7:30 A.M. to 2 A.M., Read More