There are as many ways to cut a cow as there are to skin a cat. And there is a hierarchy to these cuts, a precise architecture of prestige dictated by rarity, tenderness and taste. Upon being broken down, a singular cow is parceled into meaty ZIP codes as varied as the 175 that belong Read More
“His name is Otto,” said the waiter, setting down a two-pound red snapper in front of us.
Otto drew stares from neighboring tables, as well he might. The fish was served upright, curving around the plate like a Chinese dragon, with round, vacant eyes and a ferocious grimace on its face.
Whole fish and Read More
When the restaurant economy is good-and it’s very good indeed-culinary maternity wards overflow with the wistful, the risk-takers and, as always, the inept. This spring’s crop of new restaurants reflects these flush times in scope, number and variety. More than ever, it seems that successful restaurants are spinning off carbon copies of themselves, while others Read More
Tourondel’s Frenchified Steakhouse
Gives the People What They Want
It was an odd sight: Two men in open-necked shirts seated at a long zinc bar, eating immense popovers covered with melted cheese. They were drinking red wine in balloon-shaped glasses which they swirled and held up to the light. The glasses were almost as Read More
