What I Ate That Was Great in 2008

“Dining out is a vice, a dissipation of spirit punished by remorse,” wrote the literary critic Cyril Connolly in 1945. “We eat, drink and talk a little too much, abuse all our friends, belch out our literary preferences and are egged on by accomplices in the audience to acts of mental exhibitionism. Such evenings cannot Read More

No Soba for You!

“Where’s the noodle man?”

When my son was a boy, he loved to watch the noodle man at Honmura An, the only authentic soba restaurant in the city. The noodle man worked in a glass booth in the dining room, where he’d pummel the dough, toss it in the air and Read More