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	<title>Observer &#187; Max Sugiura</title>
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		<title>Observer &#187; Max Sugiura</title>
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		<title>American Apparel in New York:  Standing Before 100 Candles</title>

		<comments>http://observer.com/2006/12/american-apparel-in-new-york-standing-before-100-candles/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Dec 2006 00:00:00 -0400</pubDate>
					<link>http://observer.com/2006/12/american-apparel-in-new-york-standing-before-100-candles/</link>
			<dc:creator>Chris Shott</dc:creator>
				
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.observer.com/2006/12/american-apparel-in-new-york-standing-before-100-candles/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignleft" src="http://nyoobserver.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/120406_article_shott.jpg?w=300&h=225" />Building contractor Tommy Amato and a buddy were hanging out along Smith Street in Brooklyn, joking about &ldquo;getting a suntan.&rdquo;</p>
<p>The sun had set, yet the two men were bathed in bright rays emanating from the neighborhood&rsquo;s luminous American Apparel store&mdash;whose ghostly glow that dark autumn evening was clearly visible to Counter Espionage from as far as four blocks away.</p>
<p>&ldquo;Whoever moves in across the street is gonna need some really dark blinds,&rdquo; said Mr. Amato, pointing to a construction site directly opposite to the effulgent storefront.</p>
<p>Avoiding the glare of American Apparel isn&rsquo;t easy these days, as the ever-expanding L.A.-based clothing chain continues to flip on more fluorescent lights across New York City.</p>
<p>On Nov. 15, the international retailer opened its newest well-lit casual-wear emporium at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 19th Street&mdash;its 15th such location in Manhattan and Brooklyn in just three years. That&rsquo;s almost double the presence, in two fewer years, of growing local clothier Brooklyn Industries.</p>
<p>The California company that prides itself on providing &ldquo;proper lighting&rdquo; for its factory workers seems determined to do the same for gloomy Gotham streetscapes.</p>
<p>&ldquo;It&rsquo;s more related to attracting attention and having a general aesthetic that&rsquo;s recognizable,&rdquo; said Miguel McKelvey of Jordan Parnass Digital Architecture in Brooklyn. &ldquo;Depending on where you live, maybe that&rsquo;s a positive or maybe it&rsquo;s a negative.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Mr. McKelvey has played an integral role in American Apparel&rsquo;s aggressive rollout, serving as a store designer and location scout for the company since it first kicked off its New York operations with the 2003 creation of a flagship store inside a historic warehouse building at 712 Broadway.</p>
<p>&ldquo;In cities where it&rsquo;s brighter, the contrast doesn&rsquo;t seem to be quite so great,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;But when you have block upon block of big, heavy buildings, [American Apparel] certainly stands out more than it would when you a have a lot of sunny white buildings and palm trees.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Indeed, the company&rsquo;s vibrant West Coast design style initially clashed with the old New York infrastructure. The installation of American Apparel&rsquo;s trademark illuminated light-box sign at the protected Broadway site, for instance, resulted in a stern warning letter from the Landmarks Preservation Commission. According to a commission spokesperson, the store&rsquo;s violation remains unresolved.</p>
<p>In its dozen-plus projects since, American Apparel has done little to tone down its characteristic luminescence.</p>
<p>In fact, when searching for new spaces, Mr. McKelvey considers, among several criteria, a site&rsquo;s conduciveness to bright light.</p>
<p>A dingy old auto-parts store on North Sixth Street in Williamsburg might seem an odd place for a clothing retailer. But the store scout found abundant reflection in its &ldquo;really tall glass garage doors,&rdquo; he said.</p>
<p>Same goes for the old Jennifer Convertibles space on Eighth Avenue in Chelsea. &ldquo;Almost the entire store is storefront,&rdquo; said Mr. McKelvey. &ldquo;That&rsquo;s a store you can really see from a ways away.&rdquo;</p>
<p>The company&rsquo;s Carroll Gardens location came sort of tailor-made for its purposes. &ldquo;When we came into that project, we had the option of sort of configuring the storefront. And we said, &lsquo;Let&rsquo;s take it up as high as we can.&rsquo;&rdquo; The result is a 14-foot-tall beacon of white light along dim Smith Street.</p>
<p>Broken down by bulb, the wattage of American Apparel&rsquo;s standard fluorescents is surprisingly moderate. &ldquo;Our stores use Metalux medium-intensity fluorescent lights that require a mere 37 watts per bulb,&rdquo; said Max Sugiura, the company&rsquo;s local operations manager.</p>
<p>En masse, however, the output is significant, &ldquo;roughly 100 foot-candles of light,&rdquo; Mr. Sugiura said, citing the traditional measure of luminescence, which means staring at an American Apparel window is like standing a foot from 100 candles. That&rsquo;s far above the 30 to 50 foot-candles recommended for mass-merchandise retailers by the Illuminating Engineering Society of North America.</p>
<p>The &ldquo;daylight&rdquo; tint of the bulbs is another factor upping the intensity, added Mr. McKelvey: &ldquo;The color that you get from those lamps is very white and very bright. So it&rsquo;s different than a lower-color-spectrum fluorescent, for example, which would seem a little bit warmer and not as quite really, really bright white.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Unlike many retailers, American Apparel doesn&rsquo;t put up a lot of window displays that might otherwise block out the intense radiation.</p>
<p>&ldquo;There&rsquo;s some merchandise in the window bays, and there&rsquo;s some signage,&rdquo; said Mr. McKelvey, pointing to the newest Fifth Avenue store. &ldquo;But for the most part, the windows are completely open, so the store is really bright, and it kind of glows on the corner there.&rdquo;</p>
<p>As a marketing strategy, the incandescence works, according to one expert.</p>
<p>&ldquo;There has been a trend in retail, especially mass-merchandising retail, to raise light levels,&rdquo; said Dan Frering, education manager for the Lighting Research Center at Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute. &ldquo;People are clearly drawn to brighter spaces. So, if you&rsquo;re looking at five stores in a row and one is brighter than the rest, you&rsquo;re like a moth: You&rsquo;re gonna be drawn to the brighter store.&rdquo;</p>
<p>To Mr. Frering, American Apparel&rsquo;s illumination recalls that of other ever-expansive retailers. &ldquo;Lighting to one very bright light level, that&rsquo;s how McDonald&rsquo;s lights,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;It sends a message that it&rsquo;s clean and that it&rsquo;s a place where people know they&rsquo;re gonna get quick service and reasonably priced merchandise. That&rsquo;s why Wal-Mart is lit that way; that&rsquo;s why Kmart is lit that way.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Where will the next beaming American Apparel pop up?</p>
<p>While Mr. Sugiura suggested to Counter Espionage that the company&rsquo;s local growth would cease &ldquo;for a while&rdquo; following its latest opening on Fifth Avenue, Mr. McKelvey hasn&rsquo;t stopped looking for new spaces to light up. &ldquo;We have a few other neighborhoods that we&rsquo;re on the lookout for,&rdquo; he said, noting a noticeable gap in store coverage between Columbus Circle and Columbia University.</p>
<p>Shade your eyes, Upper West Siders.</p>
]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignleft" src="http://nyoobserver.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/120406_article_shott.jpg?w=300&h=225" />Building contractor Tommy Amato and a buddy were hanging out along Smith Street in Brooklyn, joking about &ldquo;getting a suntan.&rdquo;</p>
<p>The sun had set, yet the two men were bathed in bright rays emanating from the neighborhood&rsquo;s luminous American Apparel store&mdash;whose ghostly glow that dark autumn evening was clearly visible to Counter Espionage from as far as four blocks away.</p>
<p>&ldquo;Whoever moves in across the street is gonna need some really dark blinds,&rdquo; said Mr. Amato, pointing to a construction site directly opposite to the effulgent storefront.</p>
<p>Avoiding the glare of American Apparel isn&rsquo;t easy these days, as the ever-expanding L.A.-based clothing chain continues to flip on more fluorescent lights across New York City.</p>
<p>On Nov. 15, the international retailer opened its newest well-lit casual-wear emporium at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 19th Street&mdash;its 15th such location in Manhattan and Brooklyn in just three years. That&rsquo;s almost double the presence, in two fewer years, of growing local clothier Brooklyn Industries.</p>
<p>The California company that prides itself on providing &ldquo;proper lighting&rdquo; for its factory workers seems determined to do the same for gloomy Gotham streetscapes.</p>
<p>&ldquo;It&rsquo;s more related to attracting attention and having a general aesthetic that&rsquo;s recognizable,&rdquo; said Miguel McKelvey of Jordan Parnass Digital Architecture in Brooklyn. &ldquo;Depending on where you live, maybe that&rsquo;s a positive or maybe it&rsquo;s a negative.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Mr. McKelvey has played an integral role in American Apparel&rsquo;s aggressive rollout, serving as a store designer and location scout for the company since it first kicked off its New York operations with the 2003 creation of a flagship store inside a historic warehouse building at 712 Broadway.</p>
<p>&ldquo;In cities where it&rsquo;s brighter, the contrast doesn&rsquo;t seem to be quite so great,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;But when you have block upon block of big, heavy buildings, [American Apparel] certainly stands out more than it would when you a have a lot of sunny white buildings and palm trees.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Indeed, the company&rsquo;s vibrant West Coast design style initially clashed with the old New York infrastructure. The installation of American Apparel&rsquo;s trademark illuminated light-box sign at the protected Broadway site, for instance, resulted in a stern warning letter from the Landmarks Preservation Commission. According to a commission spokesperson, the store&rsquo;s violation remains unresolved.</p>
<p>In its dozen-plus projects since, American Apparel has done little to tone down its characteristic luminescence.</p>
<p>In fact, when searching for new spaces, Mr. McKelvey considers, among several criteria, a site&rsquo;s conduciveness to bright light.</p>
<p>A dingy old auto-parts store on North Sixth Street in Williamsburg might seem an odd place for a clothing retailer. But the store scout found abundant reflection in its &ldquo;really tall glass garage doors,&rdquo; he said.</p>
<p>Same goes for the old Jennifer Convertibles space on Eighth Avenue in Chelsea. &ldquo;Almost the entire store is storefront,&rdquo; said Mr. McKelvey. &ldquo;That&rsquo;s a store you can really see from a ways away.&rdquo;</p>
<p>The company&rsquo;s Carroll Gardens location came sort of tailor-made for its purposes. &ldquo;When we came into that project, we had the option of sort of configuring the storefront. And we said, &lsquo;Let&rsquo;s take it up as high as we can.&rsquo;&rdquo; The result is a 14-foot-tall beacon of white light along dim Smith Street.</p>
<p>Broken down by bulb, the wattage of American Apparel&rsquo;s standard fluorescents is surprisingly moderate. &ldquo;Our stores use Metalux medium-intensity fluorescent lights that require a mere 37 watts per bulb,&rdquo; said Max Sugiura, the company&rsquo;s local operations manager.</p>
<p>En masse, however, the output is significant, &ldquo;roughly 100 foot-candles of light,&rdquo; Mr. Sugiura said, citing the traditional measure of luminescence, which means staring at an American Apparel window is like standing a foot from 100 candles. That&rsquo;s far above the 30 to 50 foot-candles recommended for mass-merchandise retailers by the Illuminating Engineering Society of North America.</p>
<p>The &ldquo;daylight&rdquo; tint of the bulbs is another factor upping the intensity, added Mr. McKelvey: &ldquo;The color that you get from those lamps is very white and very bright. So it&rsquo;s different than a lower-color-spectrum fluorescent, for example, which would seem a little bit warmer and not as quite really, really bright white.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Unlike many retailers, American Apparel doesn&rsquo;t put up a lot of window displays that might otherwise block out the intense radiation.</p>
<p>&ldquo;There&rsquo;s some merchandise in the window bays, and there&rsquo;s some signage,&rdquo; said Mr. McKelvey, pointing to the newest Fifth Avenue store. &ldquo;But for the most part, the windows are completely open, so the store is really bright, and it kind of glows on the corner there.&rdquo;</p>
<p>As a marketing strategy, the incandescence works, according to one expert.</p>
<p>&ldquo;There has been a trend in retail, especially mass-merchandising retail, to raise light levels,&rdquo; said Dan Frering, education manager for the Lighting Research Center at Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute. &ldquo;People are clearly drawn to brighter spaces. So, if you&rsquo;re looking at five stores in a row and one is brighter than the rest, you&rsquo;re like a moth: You&rsquo;re gonna be drawn to the brighter store.&rdquo;</p>
<p>To Mr. Frering, American Apparel&rsquo;s illumination recalls that of other ever-expansive retailers. &ldquo;Lighting to one very bright light level, that&rsquo;s how McDonald&rsquo;s lights,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;It sends a message that it&rsquo;s clean and that it&rsquo;s a place where people know they&rsquo;re gonna get quick service and reasonably priced merchandise. That&rsquo;s why Wal-Mart is lit that way; that&rsquo;s why Kmart is lit that way.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Where will the next beaming American Apparel pop up?</p>
<p>While Mr. Sugiura suggested to Counter Espionage that the company&rsquo;s local growth would cease &ldquo;for a while&rdquo; following its latest opening on Fifth Avenue, Mr. McKelvey hasn&rsquo;t stopped looking for new spaces to light up. &ldquo;We have a few other neighborhoods that we&rsquo;re on the lookout for,&rdquo; he said, noting a noticeable gap in store coverage between Columbus Circle and Columbia University.</p>
<p>Shade your eyes, Upper West Siders.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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