How Ruhlman Saved My Thumb (And Your Veal Stock)

THE ELEMENTS OF COOKING: TRANSLATING THE CHEF’S CRAFT FOR EVERY KITCHEN
By Michael Ruhlman
Scribner, 244 pages, $24

There’s a style of food writing that has proliferated in recent years, a sort of precious, overdone prose that makes me want to scratch my eyeballs out. I love eating food and I love making Read More

Communing With Cooks Who Braise, Brand and Shill

To Michael Ruhlman, dining at a four-star restaurant is akin to a religious experience. “The meaning of life could be found in an onion,” he writes in his new book, The Reach of a Chef, “and the battle of a busy restaurant service could deliver you to an altered state of being—equal parts grace and Read More

‘Houselust’ in Cleveland, Broken Promises in Asbury Park

House: A Memoir, by Michael Ruhlman. Viking, 243 pages, $24.95

4th of July, Asbury Park: A History of the Promised Land, by Daniel Wolff. Bloomsbury, 278 pages, $24.95

In July of 2001, author Michael Ruhlman ( The Soul of a Chef, Walk on Water) and his wife, photographer Donna Turner-Ruhlman, entered a large, century-old house Read More

Pretense-Tense Surgeons, A Heartbeat From Disaster

Walk on Water: Inside an Elite Pediatric Surgical Unit , by Michael Ruhlman. Viking, 340 pages, $24.95.

It would be hard to imagine journalism more precisely and intelligently practiced than that of Michael Ruhlman in this arresting investigation of surgery on congenital heart defects and the men who perform it at the Cleveland Clinic. Read More

My Year in the C.I.A.:Infiltrating the Foodies

The Making of a Chef , by Michael Ruhlman. Henry Holt and Company, $27.50, 305 pages.

Several years ago, I had a meal of a lifetime at Marc Meneau’s three-star restaurant, Auberge à l’Espérance, in Vezelay, Burgundy. We began lunch with fried Marenne oysters topped with caviar and went on to morels cooked in Read More