Creative Director Francisco Costa alongside Diane Kruger, Emma Stone and Amy Adams.

We love the clean lines and abstract nature of Francisco Costa’s designs for Calvin Klein Collection. Of Brazilian descent, he has an unmatchable talent for creating wearable art that is minimal and wearable—perhaps the only one who provides a Parisian level of artistic thrills in New York.

We had some time to spare before the show began—a departure from our general habit of sprinting four blocks and arriving sweaty and out of breath at the last minute. We left our seat-mates Bianca Jagger, Julie Macklowe and Kelly Klein, to name a few, to explore the front rows.

Amy Adams, Diane Kruger, Emma Stone and photographer Patrick Demarchelier were all present, but our vigilant eyes sought out someone less obvious: W Magazine’s Fashion and Style Director, Edward Enninful.

“What are some of the highlights for you?” The Observer asked.

"September is the January of fashion," said Edward Enniful, who was flanked by Hollywood's hottest.

“Oh my goodness, there have been a couple of really great shows. I really enjoyed Proenza [Schouler]. I really enjoyed Rodarte, Marc Jacobs,” he replied, browsing the endless catalog of styles he had presumably witnessed in the past week; an unbearable fashion overload, it seems.

“How have you enjoyed W and growing there?” we carried on.

“With a great team, there is so much freedom ... It kinda of encourages you to do the best you can. We’re having a ball!” Mr. Enninful told The Observer.

Indeed, but is the ball worthwhile, we wanted to know. “Why is fashion week so important for stylists?”

“It’s like the Oscars of fashion. It’s like a get-together on one hand, and you decide how the whole year is going to be, how the whole season is going to be mapped out. September is the January of fashion.”

Well put. We bid adieu to Mr. Enniful, who was off to London in a few hours for more style and mayhem.

There was a sense of powerful austerity and dark romance for spring 2013, and it delivered a bold, physical (read: sexualized) reaction. There is a curiosity to the clothing, one that our fashion eyes could not decipher. Chiaroscuro, cinched waists and overemphasized busts, and innovative fabrics captured the fashion frenzy’s weary attention. The looks featured interesting moiré appearances, glossy leathers layered over tranquil matte crepes and cotton voiles in muted black, reed and cream colors. It highlighted a richness that was not opulently crass.

Looks from the spring 2013 collection.

A novice would have likened the proportions of several dresses to rolls of toilet paper under silk or waxed netting over a cage, but such individuals shouldn’t even be permitted to grace a Calvin Klein Collection boutique.

To end with a bang is no small feat after innumerable ready-to-wear collections of relatively unmoving, routinely practical and safe proportions. American’s sportswear isn’t in a rut; it just is what it is. How lucky we are to have Calvin Klein’s Mr. Costa. We don’t have any callous commentary, just rare bliss, which sadly ended the moment we exited onto ghastly, repulsive 39th Street.

We braced for the worst on the last day of New York Fashion Week, when Calvin Klein (and KCD) sent The Observer this alarming email warning:

“As a reminder, you are confirmed to attend the Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2012 Women's show today at 2PM.  We have been made aware that the Occupy Wall Street movement has plans to stage a non-violent demonstration in the vicinity of our show.  Please note that we have taken extra security efforts to ensure the safety of our guests and that the entrance process into our venue is as seamless as usual.  In light of this, all guests will be required to show email verification of a seat assignment and a form of photo identification. Please bring both with you this afternoon.

The event will be held at 205 West 39th Street and your seat assignment is L-2-2.”

Duly noted!

The rain that day didn’t justify an umbrella (besides which we lost ours at Michael Kors…) Turns out—the PR precaution, while wise and considerate, was unnecessary as well.

“Occupy fashion week!” one pitifully quiet and tattered protester yelled as we marched past him.

Well-accustomed to the photo I.D. process by now, we dutifully cooperated before entering the pitch-black showroom.

Only two rows of seating boasted an impressive roster of fashion bigwigs, whose names were perfectly printed in each spot. Calvin Klein Eternity eau de parfum accompanied the name placards… perfect for re-gifting!

Patrick Demarchelier, Mario Sorrenti, Vinoodh Matadin and Inez van Lamsweerde sat directly in front of us!

“Tout va bien?” Mr. Demarcherlier greeted Ms. van Lamsweerde.

A quick span of the room, revealed even more glitterati. The arrivals of Lara Stone (supermodel/spokeswoman for Calvin Klein), Emma Stone and Rooney Mara gave Billy Farrell and cohorts plenty to do…

Creative director Francisco Costa has evolved the brand’s signature aesthetic to an unparalleled level of ultra-refined, minimalism. Mr. Costa didn’t disappoint for winter 2012/13 either.

The click-clack of the models’ heels was still audible over the austere soundtrack...

They wore firmly structured, glazed wool/mohair collarless coats with hammered silver belts--in exaggerated proportions. There was a weightlessness with the severity, however. On the lighter end, were shades of poppy and sienna on wool tweed shift dresses, with strong pleats. The texture of the fabrics easily conveyed their value.

Leather skirts, tops and dresses were balanced by soft cashmere—some in bold tones. What really made a statement, were the onyx embroidered, laser-cut wool separates and knotted silk embroidery bodice dresses (that glistened as if beaded appliqué).

Beautiful!

As we slowly sauntered out, it seemed that the fashion frenzy had sobered… Calvin Klein Collection was a peaceful end.

Images: Dan Lecca and Patrick McMullan.

Nicolas Roldan, this year's polo paramour and rumored beau of equestrienne Georgina Bloomberg, arrived at the event with Lupe Roldan and greeted Delfina Blacquier warmly in Spanish.

"I still have one more tournament, but it's a low-goal tournament in Southampton," the Argentina-born horseman told the Transom in an unmistakably American accent. "Then I'm off to South Carolina and then to Argentina."

What have been the highlights of the summer?

"Everything. I love it out here. The weather has been beautiful and the polo's been fun." Roldan, who calls Palm Beach home, lives with sponsor Michael Barico while mallet-wielding on the east end.

Montauk veteran Dick Cavett made his way to the makeshift car park in the backyard of the private home on Goose Creek Road.

The Transom stopped him to ask if and how the fishing village has changed over the years.

"Not at all," Mr. Cavett deadpanned. "It's just the same little sleepy village of fishermen that it always was, sort of like Sleepy Hollow. There are no glitzy people there, no schmucks from Southampton. It's sort of a Brigadoon really."

"Now do you wanna really know?" the New York Times blogger smiled mischeiviously. "I'm sorry to see it change. It was a nice quiet place when I first came there. I know that Richard Nixon would be upset because when he came out here years ago he said, 'I'm glad I'm not in Southampton or East Hampton but in Montauk where the real people are.' Now they aren't all real people," the former talk show host paused, "but they're more real than Richard Nixon."

"If you don't wanna use Nixon's name you can say the great unindicted co-conspirator."

Over his shoulder as he walked away the former Tonight Show writer added, "you might Google some of my pieces on Nixon."

Handsome polo mascot Nacho Figueras wore his uniform of a cashmere cableknit draped over the shoulders of his button down, artfully unbuttoned to his sternum and tucked into belted dark wash jeans. He informed the Transom of his post-Hamptons polo season itinerary. "We're here one more week. I do my charity polo game on Sunday and then back to Argentina. On October 10 I'm playing a match in LA, sort of an exhibition like the thing in New York with Prince Harry, at the Will Rogers estate, where we're going to raise money for the Will Rogers Park." He combed his hair behind his ears before continuing, "so Argentina, LA, back to Argentina, then Australia and then Florida."

Will Mr. Figueras' blonde wisp of a wife and three young sons be joining him on his travels? "They always come with me. They probably won't go to LA because it's a short trip, but they come everywhere else with me. I love to be with them."

Catherine Zeta-Jones buys duplicates of all her clothes and stocks them at her various homes throughout the world so that they all have identical wardrobes. [Vogue UK]

Critics find Indian Vogue offensive because of its spread of real people living in impoverished areas, photographed with accessories like a $100 Fendi bib and $200 Burberry umbrella. [NY Times]  

Halston may replace designer Marco Zanini with a whole design team rather than an individual designer. [WWD] 

Jil Sander has been sold to Onward Holdings Co. Ltd., a Tokyo-based apparel group, for $244.1 million. [WWD]

Photographer Patrick Demarchelier said he'd like to photograph Michelle Obama. [Vogue UK]