Pino’s Luongo Journey Back

Using a fork and a knife, 49-year-old restaurateur Pino Luongo sliced his fried eggs and shaved Croatian truffles as if he was cutting a sirloin. The ochre yolks bled onto the fragrant fungi.

He took a bite of his appetizer and closed his puffy, world-weary eyes.

“This is not the best way to eat Read More

Back in Tuscany Again, This Time in the East Village

The evening got off to a bad start. We had been to a play downtown, and I had picked a restaurant I thought was near the theater. But when we emerged–late and hungry–into a driving rainstorm, this proved not to be the case and I had, of course, forgotten the exact address. After trying four Read More