The Emperor of Wine: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. and the Reign of American Taste by Elin McCoy. Ecco, 342 pages, $25.95.
It’s true, you can now buy first-growth Bordeaux from Costco. Thank the
much-discussed wine boom of the past few decades—the emergence of the idea that
wine is something every Read More
It was a simple wine menu, four whites and four reds. But Jonathan Nossiter, a former sommelier sitting in the bar of the Sixty Thompson Street Hotel in Soho, couldn’t make up his mind. He’d been staring quizzically at the red plastic card for some time. “I don’t know what to say about this list,” Read More
It’s been just over six months since Alain Ducasse opened his restaurant in the Essex House, setting off a furor in the New York press that continued well into winter. It wasn’t just the excesses that drew ire–the selection of knives presented for carving the squab (which Mr. Ducasse, it has been noted, requires to Read More
It was Monday lunchtime and at a nearby table eight men were seated before dozens of gleaming wineglasses, fanned out in front of them like the spokes of a wheel. They kicked off with a glass of champagne and then got down to business, sniffing and swirling and holding their glasses of red wine up Read More