Play It Again, Sandro

The legendary Sandro, all of 6-foot-4, makes his stately passage through the dining room in a white T-shirt and outsize pants that look like pajamas. Tonight they are patterned with blue, pink and yellow dots (last week it was green and turquoise peacock feathers). The genial chef and host, who has close-cropped hair, a beard Read More

When Not in Rome, Sandro’s Is the Next Best Thing

Sandro’s is the sort of trattoria you stumble upon in Rome or Naples, having run the gauntlet of Vespas and gotten lost several times. It has a jovial, outsize chef and waiters who hectically weave their way among the tables, wielding Parmesan and pepper mills and setting down free glasses of grappa after dinner. I Read More