The chef Wylie Dufresne looks a bit like a character out of The Far Side. He is still boyish at 42, with indoor-only onionskin, anachronistic muttonchops, bookish glasses and long, side-parted hair. If you wanted to compare them side by side, however, which would be useful, that might be difficult.
In 1998, when the Internet Read More
“Hollywood has an entire awards season! We have one night of the year to pat ourselves on the back,” said power restaurateur Drew Nieporent, waving around a half-smoked stogie outside Alice Tully Hall, where the James Beard Awards, which celebrate the food industry, were being held on Monday, May 3-a safe distance from the Costume Read More
Jovial restaurateur Drew Nieporent stood outside of Lincoln Center’s Avery Fisher Hall on Monday evening, May 4, holding an umbrella in one hand and a smoldering stogie in the other.
A Cuban? Never! “You’re too young to remember, but Ken Aretsky almost went to prison for that!” Mr. Nieporent said, referring to the proprietor of Read More
Don’t call it a comeback. Britney Spears dusts herself off and puts on some glasses (prop?) to play an amorous receptionist on How I Met Your Mother (CBS, 8:30 p.m.). Sadly, between her custody battles, mental breakdowns, and her ill-chosen affair with a paparazzo, the cameo amounts to the only good press the Read More
Alex Ureña has worked his way through the best restaurants, beginning as a dishwasher at the River Café. He ran the kitchen at Bouley, opened Blue Hill with Dan Barber, was executive chef at Suba and Marseille, and spent several months frothing sauces with mad scientist Ferran Adrià at El Bulli in Spain. At last Read More
The waitress set a plate down in front of me. In the center was a shiny, four-inch, perfect gray square. It looked like a tile made of glazed marble. I touched the tile with the prongs of my fork. It jiggled. When I lifted my fork, the tile came apart in limp pieces that draped Read More
“How do chefs think up such things?” asked my mother over the telephone from England. I’d just told her what I’d had for dinner the previous night at Oceana: skate stuffed with pastrami, trout with kimchee and lily bulbs, and tuna tartare with horseradish sorbet.
“They imagine different tastes and try to put them together,” Read More
Dufresne’s WD 50 Greases
The Gastronomic Imagination
My Irish grandfather once dropped a live oyster into a glass of brandy to see if the two went together. He looked at the shriveled result and decided they didn’t.
Chef Wylie Dufresne is made of sterner stuff. If you order oysters at WD 50, his Read More