Red Hook Restaurant Row?

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The Good Fork.

The Good Fork, at 391 Van Brunt Street, just opened its doors to the public last week. By the look of it, it’s an auspicious start. With just a little word-of-mouth, it’s been busy every night, and the buzz is that all the food is delicious. It’s got a very understated exterior, which we like. Instead of trumpeting attention, it’s just a warm glow on an otherwise bleakish street that open up into a warm wood-and-brick interior.

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Co-owner Ben Schneider, left.

We can’t comment on anything but the papardelle with wild boar ragu (it’s all we’ve tried so far)–it’s excellent. Along with a glass of the Malbec, we were in heaven last night. We heard that the crab cakes are also tip-top, and that’s from a crab-hater. Click for menu.

The restaurant’s owned and run by Coffey Street residents (and married couple) Ben Schneider and Sohui Kim. Ben runs the front and Sohui mans the kitchen. It’s open Tuesday through Saturday, from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.

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Co-owner Sohui Kim.

It’ll be interesting to see if this new joint–along with 360 up the street, Sunny’s bar right around the corner and the soon-to-be-opened Fairway–can generate more foot traffic along this stretch of desolate Van Brunt Street. And if the added nightlife will cause rents to once again jump.

-Matthew Grace

Red Hook Restaurant Row?