Darling, Would You Marry … Wait, Is That a Sunchoke Mousse?

For dessert, hot chocolate soufflé may be old-fashioned, but no matter—it’s perfect: dark, mollet in the center, with crunchy praline

For dessert, hot chocolate soufflé may be old-fashioned, but no matter—it’s perfect: dark, mollet in the center, with crunchy praline and a scoop of chocolate ice cream. It’s hard to decide between this and the warm gooey chocolate tart with salted caramel ice cream. A light, crisp baklava encrusted with macadamia nuts is shaped like Churchill’s cigar, and rice pudding, “like a tiramisu,” is a subtle concoction of creamy arborio rice topped with ladyfingers, chocolate mousse and chunks of chocolate jello.

As I looked around the dining room, I noticed a fair number of young Asian couples. I began to wonder if the restaurant hadn’t been reviewed in some Tokyo love guide. “We haven’t figured out why,” said the waiter, “but sometimes we have as much as 70 percent Japanese.”

The couple from the bar were holding hands across their table and looking deep into each other’s eyes. But when the man left to go to the bathroom, the woman picked up her cell phone and dialed.

“She’s calling her late date,” commented my companion cynically.

But it was morning in Tokyo. I prefer to think she was calling home, with some exciting news.

Darling, Would You Marry … Wait, Is That a Sunchoke Mousse?