Celebrating Housewives and White Truffles

This was the week of white truffles. I don’t know why, but everyone was ordering white truffles. It’s too busy

This was the week of white truffles. I don’t know why, but everyone was ordering white truffles. It’s too busy to eat! People are celebrating like there’s no tomorrow. And there’s been a lot of gossip going on. Business, personal, everything!

Pete Peterson returned from Florida early because he couldn’t find a purveyor of his favorite Gold Toe socks. They’re the only kind of socks he likes to wear, so he came back. Edgar Bronfman Jr. was here with his son, Ben. That was the best table of the week because I love to see fathers and sons eating together.

It was a big publishing week. Arthur Sulzberger Jr. lunched with Richard Plepler, and Mort Zuckerman ate with Bob Rudin. Patrick McCarty was here with Fairchild CEO Gina Sanders. The only publishing person we haven’t seen is Tina Brown–oh, or Cathie Black.

The Middle Eastern prince has been here all week eating more and more white truffles. On Friday he had a magnum of red wine (it’s a joke we have that I refill a $15,000 hand-engraved bottle of 1989 Petrus wine for him) to sip over dessert and maybe to celebrate his fortuitous meeting with Real Housewife Sonja Morgan. I introduced them, and Ms. Morgan asked the prince if he was Sicilian! Can you imagine? (He said, “Yes.” I think he would have said yes to anything she asked him).

She was here celebrating her bubbling existence with pink Champagne and cotton candy. She ate with three other very good-looking women–her hairdresser, her stylist and someone else, “everyone who’s been good to me,” she told me. We need more women like that in the grill!

On Friday, a long table of Mexican architects waved to the prince after Ms. Morgan left. The reservation was made in Enrique Norten‘s name, but he was not here; I think they just used his name to get a table. The entire table ordered white truffles! I don’t know why everyone is eating us out of white truffles. Maybe because it’s getting cold outside.

We had a surprise birthday party Friday night. A man wanted to surprise his wife by renting out the grill. In the old days, people rented a plane and flew everyone down to St. Barth’s for the weekend. Now people just rent the grill instead. They had wanted caviar for the party but worried that not enough guests would enjoy it. They replaced it, like everyone else this week, with truffle risotto. Charlie Rangel came to the party; everyone was very excited to see him and he got a standing ovation!


Julian Niccolini is the co-owner of the Four Seasons restaurant in Manhattan. Celebrating Housewives and White Truffles