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Roberta’s, Mr. Mirarchi’s remote outpost of high/low cookery, offers everything from pizzas to a high-end tasting menu, in an atmosphere at once raucous and art-directed. The primitivist decor, quirky but high-minded food and proudly insolent service are Brooklyn in a nutshell—not least because of the remote location, where it remains the type of place that so many Brooklyn restaurants once were, and have not been for years.
