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If anyone embodies the Brooklyn model of antiquarian integrity, it’s the bearded bards of the old school, the Franks, the duo behind Frankies Spuntino, Prime Meats and Cafe Pedlar. Their Spuntino gave the city an oft-imitated ideal of retro red sauce joints. Would there have been a Meatball Shop or Cent’Anni without them? Even today, with spin-off restaurants in Manhattan, their style is fixed and ubiquitous.
