The umpteenth day of Fashion Week started bright and early at the Tents at Lincoln Center with the Tory Burch spring show. After a series of delays actually getting in (one editor likened the experience to boarding a flight at JFK), Ms. Burch, known for her kitchy, colorful prints and silhouettes perfect for lunching in Palm Beach, sent out a refined collection inspired by Francoise Gilot, the artist and “only woman who ever left Picasso,” said the designer backstage. The result was a series of silk smock dresses, full-length canvas tank dresses with fringe and her signature tunics in a Grecian key motif, all fitting for young women like Mad Men’s Kiernan Shipka and Lily Aldridge, who took in the collection.
Then it was off to the J.Crew presentation, where Jenna Lyons created another season of cool girl sass derived from more than a few references, among them Ibiza, Latin American textiles and basketball. Still, like J.Crew’s signature mélange of prints, fabrics and quirky-cute mismatched styling, it worked. Like Lyons herself, the quintessential J.Crew girl is an expert in the fine art of layering, and menswear-inspired blazers over sequined tanks over tee-shirts somehow fit the bill. The fashion flock then headed downtown over to Los Angeles-based line Rodarte. Kate and Laura Mulleavy have a huge presence editorially and are favorites among independent Hollywood and rockers like Kim Gordon (who took in the show alongside Dakota Fanning). If the brand isn’t familiar to the world, it’s not an accident. This niche line specializes in being just that, and spring 2015 showcased special pieces and fierce looks like sky high-waisted skinny jeans layered under barn jackets, silk button-downs and sequin cropped sweaters.
It was then onto Marc by Marc Jacobs, currently under the leadership of Luella Bartley and Kate Hillier. The pair sent down models in cheery polka dot blouses and wrap skirts offset by latex leggings, a true fetishist’s dream. Highlights were bandeau bikini tops in the polka print layered over a tee-shirt and finished off with a wide leg pant. It was a bit of punk mixed with MMJ’s signature optimism. Narcisco Rodriguez finished off Day seven at his typical Tuesday night time slot, once again showing that he is the new master of minimalism – plunging v-neck tank tops with strappy hardness backs tucked into high rise pants while narrow skirts in graphic colors took the collection from modern into futuristic. Come next year’s Emmy season, Narcisco gals Julianna Margulies and Julia Louis Dreyfss will have plenty to choose from.