Ubud, in the uplands of Bali, is rich in rainforests, rice paddies, shrines and temples. It draws artists, musicians, dancers, yoga lovers, and wellness seekers from every continent with its abundant galleries, stages, yoga and dance studios, and annual literary, food and wellness festivals.
From Bali’s Ngurah Rai airport in Denpasar, Ubud is approximately an hour to 1.5 hours by car, taxi or motorbike. Far from the party-hard reputation of Kuta, the expat-packed Canggu and the shop-til-you-drop drawcard of Seminyak, Ubud offers a sense of retreat and spiritual replenishment. It is also considered the heartland of Bali’s raw food, vegan and vegetarian dining offerings. Far from having to sacrifice flavor and satiety for the sake of health, Alchemy’s raw version of a Hawaiian pizza (“Aloha”) or Sayuri’s raw, vegan lasagna and sushi, or the abundant sweet and savory offerings at Seeds Of Life are evidence that you can both dine well, and do well by your body and spirit.
Raw food is defined as food that has not been cooked or heated beyond 110 Fahrenheit (that’s 43 degrees Celsius). Vegan food is completely free of any animal or animal-derived product, while vegetarian food is meat-free, but may contain dairy or other animal-derived products (honey and eggs, for example).
You’ll notice that many Ubud dining spots offer a comprehensive menu of juices, smoothies and non-alcoholic beverages along with their food menus. Our tip is to order a green, ginger-spiked juice as a pre-meal appetizer, or a bottle of sweet, fresh coconut water (approximately $2 USD) that equates to three tall glasses.
Whether you’ve got a long weekend or a week in Ubud, here’s our guide to eating at the best vegan and vegetarian dining spots in the city. If you develop a bond with Ubud, which has many (including this writer) returning year upon year, consider extending your stay to enroll in a raw food course that will empower you to recreate your favorite Ubud meals at home.
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Sayuri Healing Food
Vegan, raw
Sayuri Healing Food offers a perennial menu along with daily and weekly exclusives, so always check the in-store board for what’s available when you visit. We heartily recommend the Peak Performance Bowl, chock-full of brown rice, tempeh, steamed vegetables, raw hummus, sesame-coated tempeh, avocado, edamame and the exceptional umami flavor of spirulina gomashio. At under $7, it’s a bargain.
Kafe
Vegetarian, vegan
Kafe is a popular haunt, so if you like a bit of hubbub while dining out, then arrive during typical breakfast, lunch and dinner hours. If you prefer more space and quiet, try to time your culinary experience an hour or so earlier than the typical dining hours. The staff are incredibly friendly and patient, willing to make modifications to meals on request (no radishes, exchanging brown rice for red, swapping tempeh for tofu, etc.). Try the Rainbow Buddha Bowl; it’s a large serving of brown rice, kidney beans, steamed vegetables, chopped tofu and their (amazing) tahini lemon dressing. Equally generous is the Tempe Cashew Nut Curry and the Kafe Red Rice Nasi Goreng.
Alchemy
Vegan, raw
Alchemy is a little outside of Ubud’s central township. A steep hill—which this writer has walked up and down many, many times, just for this restaurant—will take you from the scenic (and tourist-beloved) Campuhan Ridge area of Ubud to the quieter Penenestan, where you’re more likely to hear roosters and laughter than the endless throb of scooter engines. Alchemy offers a large dining area studded with tables for larger groups, and small tables for one or two diners to find solace. Most of Alchemy’s menu is raw, gluten-free and plant-based. Of all the delicious, generous dishes available, our personal favorite is the Spinach & Mushroom Pizza, which is a thin, spinach-based crust (as opposed to bread-based) richly topped with mushrooms, capers, spinach and gooey, tasty “cheeze” made from pili nuts. The Aloha Pizza is also covetable: sun-dried tomato crust, marinara sauce, “cheeze” made from creamy cashew nuts and a sprinkle of pineapple chunks, olives, mushrooms and peppery rocket. Both come in raw and cooked versions.
Seeds of Life
Vegan, raw
Seeds of Life is a hub for wellness in a holistic sense. The venue hosts ashtanga yoga courses, a raw food academy and an upstairs and downstairs dining venue that is blissfully removed from the main roads of Ubud. We recommend the Sundried Tomato Hummus & Falafel Bowl and Warm Mexican Lasagna (the raw vegan version contains beetroot, zucchini, mango salsa, sour cream made of cashews, avocado and salad), and their daily specials are always worth checking out (especially Taco Tuesday).
Siboghana Waroeng
Vegan
Siboghana Waroeng is located in the Pengosekan community, sourcing its ingredients from markets, local farmers and its own garden. The meals here are much more traditional in their expression of Balinese and Indonesian food than the other recommendations on this list. A waroeng—or warung—is a small, family-owned eatery or cafe in Indonesia. To that extent, there is something very cozy and homely about Siboghana Waroeng, and it is worth seeking out for the Gado-Gado and Vegan Brownie Pudding.
Bali Buda
Bali Buda may be recognizable to Bali-lovers who have spotted their various other outlets in Kerobokan, Bukit, Canggu and Abasan. Try their Raw Chocolate Pudding Pie, but only after you’ve indulged in their range of fresh juices and nut-based milks, the Fresh Spring Rolls (rice paper, rice noodles, miso paste, tofu, mint, carrot and peanut sauce) or the incomparably tasty Vegan Nasi Campur (organic red rice, kacang mentik, garlic, turmeric, coconut, peanut sauce and tofu). Not purely vegetarian nor vegan, it pays to double-check that your dishes are suited to your dietary preference and requirements.
Moksa
Vegan & permaculture garden
Deep in Sayan, nestled amongst the rice paddies with an elevated view over the beauty of Ubud, Moksa is truly special—and even more so in the evenings. The venue boasts a beautiful indoor and outdoor dining destination along with its own sprawling permaculture garden. Chef Made is genuinely passionate about his menu, and while some staples remain on offer for years, there are regular changes too. Start with the Moksa Dhal (a thick, vegan lentil soup with coconut sour “cream”), followed by Garden Love (raw beetroot hummus, grilled zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes, mushrooms, kalamata olives and caramelized onion on an organic salad), then treat yourself to a Black Jack Pudding.
Atman Kafe
Atman Kafe has three locations in Ubud, but the main outlet is on Jl. Hanoman. Their menu includes fish and meat, but rest assured there are many vegan and vegetarian options, too. The Jukut Urab is a Balinese vegetable dish of long beans, coconut, sprouts, chili and steamed red and white rice. If you’re keen on a breakfast that will power you through hours of wandering and exploring, try the Vegan Tempeh Scramble, with mushroom, spinach, basil, onions, garlic and grainy toast.
Wulan Vegetarian Warung
What you forego in glamour at this traditional warung, you more than make up with tasty, memorable dishes that are made from scratch. Wulan Vegetarian Warung offers classic Bali cuisine based upon tofu, tempeh, organic red rice and locally-sourced produce. Their curries, stuffed pancakes, corn cakes and noodle dishes have attracted international diners and locals alike. Try the tofu-stuffed pancakes and the Nasi Goreng—you won’t regret it.
