New York City restaurants have always maintained a certain cachet that transcends time and space. Just look at today’s trendy caviar bumps and espresso martinis, which all gained traction with a little help from the city’s bustling food scene. From speakeasies to all-night diners, if you can make it in New York you can make it anywhere.
New Yorkers pride themselves on knowing about hidden gems early on, which means that some of the coolest spots in town are often a little bit underground—literally.
Until recently, Delmonico’s, an iconic steakhouse in the Financial District that’s operated for nearly 200 years, served their self-coined delmonico cut of steak in the lush comfort of a basement space. The opulent luxury, and downright coziness, of subterranean establishments offers an incredible insight into how diners prefer to eat today: they want to feel at home and taken care of through great hospitality.
While Delmonico’s reopening is uncertain, there are still plenty of great basement-based restaurants to hunker down in and enjoy an incredible meal. And don’t be dissuaded by the lower-level location; these aren’t dungeon vibes. The Polo Bar by Ralph Lauren is a perfect example: a low-lit basement gathering space serving up classic martinis, shrimp cocktails and succulent burgers in a plush yet surprisingly cozy subterranean space. Other elevated basement hotspots have taken over the fine dining scene, offering everything from limited tasting menus and cozy chef’s counter experiences to the largest sake collection in New York. Below, see the best fine dining restaurants that use their garden-level locations to their advantage.
Subscribe to Observer’s Lifestyle Newsletter
The Polo Bar
1 E 55th St, New York, NY 10022
The menu at this hotspot is inspired by some of Ralph Lauren’s favorite foods, and it was an immediate hit upon its 2015 opening. The cozy wood-paneled interiors bring a welcome sense of comfort and ease, with that classic equestrian feel and just a smidge of irony at ordering a BLT salad and a stiff drink in such a storied space. While there are still plenty of leather accents and saddle-filled art, the restaurant also aims to welcome guests to eat, talk and laugh in the dimly lit space, while being waited on by staff outfitted in custom-made, ultra-chic Ralph Lauren uniforms. Don’t forget to cap off any meal with a classic ice cream sundae topped with hot fudge sauce, or spring for one with Ralph’s caramel corn, peanuts and salted caramel ice cream. There is a dress code here, so leave t-shirts, activewear and ripped jeans at home, and get ready for a respite from the urban sprawl.
Sakagura
211 E 43rd St B1, New York, NY 10017
Sakagura is considered a hidden jewel in NYC—and one of the best sake bars in the world. Tucked away in Midtown Manhattan since 1996, Sakagura led the charge in introducing New Yorkers to sake, and currently offers over 200 types on the menu. This is an authentic izakaya with tapas-style Japanese dishes, though the hidden location may be a bit of a challenge. The first step is to find one particular lobby in one seemingly ordinary office building, then walk past a security guard toward a flight of stairs, and head down into the cozy space. With a selection of perfectly sliced sashimi, soba and udon, as well as small plates like stone-grilled A5 Wagyu, everyone leaves happy and full. Just make sure to book in advance, as reservations go fast.
Lamia’s Fish Market
47 Avenue B, New York, NY 10009
Walking up the front door of Lamia’s Fish Market on Avenue B, you may not be prepared for the under the sea bliss that awaits within the multi-room dining establishment. Curved blue velvet booths and a lush nautical-themed bar lead to an underwater oasis, complete with elaborate murals and a healthy dose of fishing net decor. The sunken dining room holds a raw bar with an abundant display of the day’s freshest catch, including oysters, fish and lobster. The dishes focus on Mediterranean cuisine in an homage to the background of restaurateur Lamia Funti.
Undercote
16 W 22nd St, New York, NY 10010
Cote is a sleek Korean steakhouse and barbecue joint in Flatiron, known for table-fired steaks, which are aged in a special in-house dry-aging room. Undercote, the chic bar directly below the restaurant, shares the underground space with those aging steaks, but this isn’t just an aging room. The dark interior has a sleek reptilian vibe, tons of hothouse plants and some incredible food. The menu features a limited selection of nibbles that are certainly luxurious, but served in an intimate setting and ready to be washed down with an ever-changing array of tipples. To start, any of the martinis, including vodka, gin and a fancy Gibson, can be customized with add-ons like Castelvetrano olives, a lemon twist or a bump of Regiis Ova Royal Hybrid Kaluga caviar. Up that bump to a tin if you feel like sharing, or if you just want to be incredibly indulgent, as the salty brine of caviar is known to pair exceedingly well with booze-forward drinks. Follow that with a seasonal twist on a whisky sour, the Novacane, and dive into “Steak and Eggs,” featuring house-smoked pork-belly bacon, or the Korean gnocchi with gochujang glaze.
Thyme Bar
20 W 23rd St, Cellar, New York, NY 10010
Great food and cocktails, served in an underground bar that’s set in a former speakeasy and gambling den from the 1920s? That’s Thyme Bar, an artistic cocktail haven hidden in plain sight beneath a bakery on 23rd Street. The cozy, dimly-lit space plays into the speakeasy vibes with ornate touches and a warm, slightly theatrical ambiance that celebrates some of the most beautiful cocktails and bites around. Being served in a pre-war cellar, hidden in the heart of Flatiron, certainly does add to the appeal. Start with oysters and salmon crudo paired with mezcal patchouli cocktails and you’ll be transported to cloud nine…which also happens to be the name of a champagne cocktail on the menu. Reservations are required for the full tasting menu, and yes, it might still be hard to choose from the ube crème brûlée or the Gynoecium Old Fashioned with peanut butter-washed whiskey and butterscotch for dessert.
Chinese Tuxedo
5 Doyers St, New York, NY 10013
Chinatown is a uniquely historical place in New York City, with generations of people and businesses occupying sometimes centuries-old buildings. Chinese Tuxedo, named after one of Chinatown’s first fine dining restaurants, is an homage to all of the best parts of the bustling neighborhood. They specialize in reimagined versions of traditional Chinese banquet dishes, in a space that once housed the city’s first Chinese theater, on Doyers Street. The space was painstakingly renovated to retain as many historical details as possible, such as the original pillars, with touches of contemporary art and mid-century modern furnishings. The subterranean dining room feels simultaneously expansive and cozy, making it the perfect setting to enjoy the signature crispy eggplant and one of the oft-changing seasonal cocktails.
Atomix
104 E 30th St, New York, NY 10016
One of the best restaurants in New York is tucked away in a little spot in the basement of a brownstone in Murray Hill. The team behind Atoboy, chef Junghyun and manager Ellia Park, are behind this spot, with a menu full of modern Korean flavors. The sleek bar and chef’s counter offers just two night seatings for this 10-course tasting menu, and is one of the most sought-after reservations around. The current menu features scallops with gochugaru and japchae with turnip and black truffle, all served in the intimate communal chef’s counter.
Sartiano’s at The Mercer
99 Prince St. New York, NY 10012
When Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s celeb magnet Mercer Kitchen in the luxury Soho hotel, The Mercer, closed after nearly 25 years, New York’s dining scene took a hit. Now, the hip subterranean watering hole is back with a new restaurant occupying the space—Scott Sartiano’s aptly-named Sartiano’s, helmed by three-time James Beard Award-winner chef Alfred Portale. The space, known for its buzzy downtown energy, will keep things rolling with modern Italian food meant to evoke elevated comfort in the cozy space. The menu offers caviar service, local oysters and lighter fare like scallop crudo and a classic selection of antipasti. There are also a mix of red sauce favorites, char-grilled steaks and dishes like branzino and an elegant lemon spaghetti with Italian caviar.
Scalinatella
201 E 61st St, New York, NY 10065
This Upper East Side landmark of garden-level dining experiences feels like the epitome of old New York in the best way. Waiters expertly recommend bottles of Barolo to sip with the classic fare enjoyed by movers and shakers privy to the under-the-radar spot. The menu features a seasonally rotating assortment of fresh fish and pasta specials; the linguine with clams is a classic standout. Finish with a house tiramisu for the table, and make sure to book a reservation well in advance—weekends can get busy, as expected.
