It seems like everyone is drinking agave spirits these days. While tequila is the most popular, smoky mezcal is on the rise. Yet ask someone how mezcal differs from tequila, and they will more often than not be hard-pressed to narrow it down, aside from that classic smoky taste. Both spirits do begin in the agave fields, but most people are unaware that agave itself is a crop that has been heavily cultivated for thousands of years.
While tequila has certain restrictions on the type of agave used, as well as the distillation process, mezcal has a little more freedom to use any available type of agave, and it can also be produced outside of the state of Jalisco. The most commonly used types of agave represent approximately 18 different varieties, with the most popular being Espadín, Tobalá, Sierra Negra, Mexicano and Jabalí.
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Santiago Suarez and Luis Niño de Rivera began making mezcal in 2010. The two friends, who are both from Mexico City, had a mission in mind: they had a vision of helping support local communities by bringing them together, all while making some of the smoothest mezcal around. Suarez and de Rivera came up with a holistic model that they call “siembra tu futuro,” or “sow your future,” and this led to the creation of Mezcal Amarás, their organic, sustainably-minded mezcal brand.
“If you give the community the tools and training in a model that will generate income with certainty, they will prosper and work to accomplish the best quality products in a conscious and progressive way,” de Rivera told Observer. So, how did they implement this plan?
Espadin is the most common agave used for mezcal, and on average, one plant can take anywhere from eight to ten years to fully mature. That time may vary for the dozen other types of agave used to make mezcal. Since the agave is so vitally important, de Rivera and Suarez recruited local farmers in Oaxaca, Guerrero and Durango to help facilitate the growing process and maintain biodiversity. Suarez and de Rivera work with their team to rescue and protect wild agave species, and then handpick the healthiest mother plants to propagate. They wait until those plants are ready to reproduce, and then select the best seeds.
The next step is planting, and de Rivera and Suarez have certain criteria that help them determine the right farms to work with. “First, the area has to be close to the rest of the farmed lands.” de Rivera explained. “Then, with studies and certain criteria, [we] confirm if certain lands comply with what we require. Finally, if the farmer is willing to work on our model of planting, we close the deal.”
The Amaras team supplies the initial agave plants, grown in a nursery, as an investment in the vital organic farming process. “We want to empower the landowners to work their land in a sustainable, holistic and exponential way through the agave maintaining their traditions generating progressive economic, social and environmental benefits,” de Rivera shared.
One of the ways they help empower landowners is by partnering with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF). The Amaras team started working with the nonprofit 2018, to implement sustainable operations by introducing dry toilets to the farms. Water is scarce in many agave growing regions of Mexico, and these dry toilets turn human waste into fertilizer and urine into a reusable watering source, to help efforts to reach carbon neutral status. Since their initiative began, they have planted over 150,000 agave seeds and created partnerships all over the region with small farms, investing the time and money to help them work more sustainably, and creating job opportunities in local communities.
The WWF partnership was essential to their efforts. “We needed help from experts to understand the environmental and economic impacts of the category in the agave and mezcal communities. WWF was perfect because they already work with projects in Oaxaca,” de Rivera said. Additional efforts include allocating up to 20 percent of net sales back into developing new initiatives, such as training practices for farmers and buying artisanally-produced mezcal from small producers.
Due to the nature of the collaboration with local farmers, Mezcal Amarás is able to make single estate and origin mezcals. Since they supply the agave plants, they can be incredibly selective with when, how and what is harvested, and then distilled. These distillations turn into special bottles, which are distinct in their character and flavor, like the Espadín which is made with 100 percent espadín agave, or Cupreata, which uses cupreata agave and has distinct floral and vegetal notes. The agave is harvested, cut and then roasted in underground covered pits—this is where much of the smoky flavor comes from, as well as a rich depth to the liquid that carries through to distillation. The roasted piña, or the roasted center of the agave plant, is then crushed and fermented before finally going through the distillation process, using either a copper pot still method or a more traditional clay pot, depending on the particular bottling.
While many mezcals are unaged and have a clean, light finish, most Amaras mezcals are placed in oak barrels for at least two months, which helps smooth out the finish and balance the flavors. This makes for a richer mouthfeel without any harsh taste, one of the traits that those who dislike mezcal often cite. Mezcal Amarás Espadín is known for its brightness, with lots of smoky aromas and citrus, and a finish with hints of cinnamon and pepper. Amarás’ mission of being a steward for a better world has never tasted so good.
So, what’s next? “Our philosophy is constantly evolving, as well as our goals,” de Rivera said. Currently, that includes reaching zero deforestation for planting agave, maintaining versatility of agaves, planting different species and reusing 100 percent of all waste from mezcal production. He also wants to “compensate 100 percent of our emissions,” and in the next five years, to “plant 1,000 hectares [about 2,470 acres] of agave [and] more than 75,000 trees, and work with replanting tree programs for wood purchase.”
Whether you’re already a mezcal enthusiast or you’re just beginning to dabble in exploring the agave-based liquor, one of the best ways to enjoy mezcal is in a cocktail, especially a margarita or mezcalita. The Espadín, in particular, is great as a base spirit in more liquor-forward cocktails, like the classic Oaxaca version of an old fashioned—just substitute agave nectar for any simple syrup for the complementary version.
Below, check out the cocktail recipes sure to expand your appreciation for all things mezcal.
Cupreata Mezcalita
Ingredients:
1.5 oz Mezcal Amaras Cupreata
1 oz fresh lime juice
1/2 agave nectar
Tajin rim
Instructions:
Rub the rim of your glass with fresh lime and coat in tajin seasoning. Add lime juice, agave nectar and mezcal to a shaker. Pour over ice.
Cold Brew Reposado
Ingredients:
2 oz Mezcal Amarás Reposado
.5 oz coffee liqueur (like Kahlua)
1 oz cold brew coffee
.5 oz simple syrup
Instructions:
Add all ingredients to a shaker. Shake vigorously with ice for about 10 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass or over ice.
