Drai’s, the behemoth Vegas entertainment venue, has returned to its roots with a simpler concept: French fare served with live jazz in New York City. Drai’s Supper Club, an upscale, dinner-only restaurant with a basement-level club, opened on June 11 in the Meatpacking District.
The restaurant marks Drai’s first expansion in 11 years. The hospitality brand still operates Drai’s Vegas, a nightclub that opened in 1999, but Drai’s Cafe, Drai’s Hollywood, Rare by Drai and Drai’s Nightclub in Los Angeles have all shuttered; the most recent closed in 2013.
For anyone who knew the original restaurant from Morocco-born, Paris-raised Victor Drai, Drai’s Supper Club is a refreshing pivot for the brand, now helmed by Victor and his son and partner, Dustin Drai.
Drai’s Supper Club is a sultry, red velvet scene that, on a recent hot, late spring evening, didn’t fill up for dinner until after 9 p.m. Despite the East Coast setting, the dinner crowd was dressed for a night out in Vegas—a few couples, plus big groups decked out in their tightest, shortest outfits, poised to dance to a DJ set downstairs in the lounge after their meal. Most patrons were in their 20s and 30s, likely far more aware of Drai’s 60,000-square-foot club on The Strip than the first Drai’s, the latter of which was a chic, early ‘90s paparazzi magnet.
But the decor at the new Drai’s, featuring rouge lighting, red velvet curtains, gold-framed art and an intimate stage for a jazz trio at the center, is more old school New York and offers a fun, over-the-top dinner with live music. The menu is a nod to the original Drai’s, Victor’s first restaurant in Los Angeles on La Cienega Boulevard, with classic French dishes like frog legs, steak frites, foie gras and tomato tartine. It’s divided into soups and salads, hot and cold appetizers and entrées to encourage (as per my server’s suggestion) dining in two courses, plus dessert—perhaps to inspire customers to make their way to the downstairs lounge sooner rather than later.
While the vibe feels a little like the pre-club restaurants of the 2000s, Dustin, who was checking on tables of patrons as if they were already regulars, said that he wants a dinner crowd and hopes to entice people to come in earlier—even in summer, when they may be more inclined to dine outside. After all, decadent bistro classics are best eaten under the cover of Drai’s sultry lighting, amidst red velvet round booths and sensual art nouveau paintings, and away from the stifling crowds of West 14th Street.
To begin, I ordered the Caesar salad with whole gem lettuce in an umami-happy anchovy dressing. Finely grated parmesan coated the savory, pleasantly peppery greens, and the croutons were toasted but not completely crunchy, for a touch of warmth.
One of the highlights was the house-made foie gras. The terrine was smooth, not overly pulverized, and pressed into a flat mold with a nice layer of duck fat along the rim. An accoutrement of poached apricots with edible flowers was served alongside thinly sliced grilled baguette points, creating a sweet yet earthy palate ideal for a summer night inside.
The tuna carpaccio, however, would have been better enjoyed its own, to appreciate its subtle flavor and texture. The paper-thin pieces of tender bluefin were presented on a large round plate and sliced like a pizza with a significant layer of crème fraîche on the plate beneath it. The texture and taste were reminiscent of “ham roll-ups,” a snack my mom made when I was a kid, in which she spread cream cheese on thinly sliced ham and rolled them up like deli taquitos. The carpaccio was topped with pungent truffle oil, distracting from the bluefin.
The caviar pasta is the entrée that, because of the 1.5-ounce Golden Reserve Kaluga caviar, gets a $125 price tag that shouts, “show-off.” I’ve been seeing this technique—more marketing than culinary—more and more at buzzy restaurants, such as The Chelsea Living Room’s Instagram-famous $50 mozzarella stick, and I stand by my belief that adding caviar doesn’t automatically make something good—in fact, it can make it worse. Drai’s caviar pasta is rich and creamy, but not even close to the best dish on the menu. The spaghettini, tossed in a white vodka sauce made with crème fraîche, would have benefited from less time in the pot for a better al dente bite. Conceptually, this is a fun idea—like having a martini with a spoonful of caviar and crème fraîche—but it felt plain and heavy with the hot, starchy noodles.
Alongside the pasta, I tried one of each entrée from land and sea, ranging from $47 to $75. The steak au poivre—a tender, 10-ounce grass-fed filet—with Zabar’s peppercorn sauce was creamy, smooth and subtle, cooked medium rare with just a little char. The scallops had a nice sear and proper texture, but not a standout. It was a safe dish with parsnip puree, apples, brown butter and balsamic—a take better suited to a fall launch. The haricot vert was simple and bright with slivered almonds.
For dessert, opt for a molten lava cake or the large chocolate chip cookies baked to order (expect a 10- to 15-minute wait), or just dip downstairs into the lounge for a DJ set, dancing and more drinks.
While the decadent supper club concept was a touch reminiscent of that 2010s Los Angeles scene, when scenesters indulged in steak and lobster mac and cheese at Mastro’s before hitting Hollywood clubs, it’s done well. The food was better than I expected for a brand that has poured much of its energy into the Vegas club scene, though $69 for steak au poivre and $125 for pasta might be hard for some to justify. Overall, the New York outpost is fun for an evening spent people watching, dining and sinking into a live jazz set, whether or not you make it to the club downstairs.
