Where to Sip, Eat and Stay in Napa’s Up Valley
From elevated cabernets to hot spring soaks, here’s how to experience Napa’s quieter side in the Up Valley.
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Highway 29 makes it look easy. A direct route from American Canyon up to Calistoga, with winery names you know by heart dotting the map along the way.
But if you’re planning to spend the weekend ping-ponging between tastings and restaurants across the valley, prepare for a lot of time in the car—and a not-so-relaxing getaway. It can take over two hours to get from downtown Napa to Calistoga on a busy Saturday. Add in the occasional roadwork, harvest traffic or off-season rideshare scarcity, and it starts to feel more like a commute than a vacation.
A better plan? Pick a zone and stay there. Napa Valley is only 30 miles long, but each stretch has its own pace. The Up Valley—roughly comprising St. Helena, Calistoga and the rural pockets around them—leans slower, quieter and more residential than its southern counterparts like Yountville and downtown Napa. It’s where you’ll find roadside farm stands, historic inns, outdoor mud baths and small-production tasting rooms run by the people who actually make the Napa Valley wine. It’s also home to some of the valley’s most compelling meals and its most scenic places to sleep.
From San Francisco or Oakland, the drive to this area of Northern California wine country can take approximately two hours, depending on traffic and the time of year. Flying into Santa Rosa is even easier. Rideshare apps work in the area but can be unreliable in the off-season or at odd hours, so it would be a good idea to pre-book your airport transfer and any winery transportation if you’re not planning to drive.
This guide sticks to the top of the valley, with a curated list of where to sip, eat and stay without spending the weekend chasing reservations down the highway.
How to Do Napa’s Up Valley Right—Without Spending All Weekend in the Car
- Charles Krug
- Chateau Montelena
- Davies Vineyards
- Ehlers Estate
- Frank Family Vineyards
- Schramsberg Vineyards
- Sterling Vineyards
- Tank Garage Winery
- Charlie's Napa Valley
- Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch
- Gott's Roadside
- Press
- Sam's Social Club
- Solbar
- Station St. Helena
- The Charter Oak
- The Model Bakery
- Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park
- Bothe-Napa Valley State Park
- Calistoga Spa Hot Springs
- St. Helena Main Street
- The MAC—Napa Valley Museum of Art & Culture
- Vine Trail Napa Valley
- Alila Napa Valley
- Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley
- Harvest Inn
- Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection
- Wydown Hotel
Where to Sip
Charles Krug
- 2800 Main Street, St. Helena, CA 94574
Charles Krug’s origins date to the 19th century, making it one of the oldest operating wineries in California. But its current identity owes much to the Mondavi family, who purchased it in the 1940s. Now run by Peter Mondavi Jr. and Marc Mondavi, the winery is one of the few in Napa County still allowed to host weddings—grandfathered in under older regulations predating an ordinance that now prohibits such events at most local Napa Valley wineries. The sprawling property accommodates groups and families (and dogs), with optional wine pairings with either caviar or chocolate, wood-fired pizzas on weekends and multiple tasting experiences. Newer additions include sparkling wines added to the portfolio a few years ago after repeated guest confusion with Krug Champagne in France. (A problem that still occurs daily, but at least now anyone who asks can still get a glass of bubbly, even if it’s not champagne.)
Chateau Montelena
- 1429 Tubbs Lane, Calistoga, CA 94515
There are few names in California wine with more global recognition than Chateau Montelena. The vineyard became widely known after its 1976 Judgment of Paris win, but its history stretches back to 1882. Set in a stone castle with manicured grounds in Calistoga, it remains one of the wine region’s most visited tasting rooms. The focus here is chardonnay, though a range of curated tastings is available, including high-end, private options starting at $300 per person. Walk-ins are welcome, but the more tailored experiences require advance planning. The setting is polished and traditional, and the grounds are a draw on their own—particularly for visitors who want a glimpse of the kind of winery that helped define Napa’s reputation.
Davies Vineyards
- 1210 Grayson Avenue, St. Helena, CA 94574
Davies Vineyards began with sparkling wine but found its footing in red. The estate vineyard was first planted in 1862 and sits on the southern end of the Diamond Mountain District AVA, where cool creeks and dense forest slow ripening and deepen concentration. Though the Davies family originally used the land for traditional sparkling varieties in the 1960s, the site proved better suited to Bordeaux reds, particularly cabernet sauvignon. The estate’s lineup reflects a long history with pinot noir, dating to its use in sister winery’s Schramsberg’s 1967 Blanc de Noirs, and now includes selections from top North Coast vineyards. Tasting experiences are varied and structured, with red, sparkling, and combination flights starting at $65. More specialized offerings include a $180 Cabernet library tasting and a $275 vertical paired with caviar and cheese, each with tightly limited availability and advanced booking requirements. The most elaborate option—a wine and food brunch—pairs caviar, polenta cake and seared tenderloin with Schramsberg bubbles and Davies reds in a guided, seated format.
Ehlers Estate
- 3222 Ehlers Lane, St. Helena, CA 94574
Ehlers Estate limits the number of guests on property at one time, and the experience reflects that. Visits are intimate and focused, often led by an educator who walks guests through the estate’s approach to winemaking and organic farming. Tasting appointments last about 75 minutes and include current releases and a short property tour. There’s also a four-course lunch pairing option that emphasizes seasonal ingredients, and the focus stays on the wine and the land from which it comes. And dogs are welcome.
Frank Family Vineyards
- 1091 Larkmead Lane, Calistoga, CA 94515
The new Miller House tasting room at Frank Family is a striking change from the original Craftsman house, offering a dramatic space built with reclaimed materials and designed by Howard Backen. The winery has a reputation for friendly service and an approachable, relaxed style. Many of the bottles poured are only available on-site. Tastings are casual and often personalized; guests may be offered something unreleased or produced in limited quantities. It’s a well-trafficked stop, but one that manages to stay grounded in small-scale hospitality.
Schramsberg Vineyards
- 1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga, CA 94515
A must-visit destination for anyone who loves bubbles, Schramsberg is best known for sparkling wines and cave tours that tend to stick in visitors’ memories. Wine tours and tastings are by appointment only, with several options ranging from a standard five-glass sparkling lineup to more expensive pairings with cheese or reserve still wines. Prices increased after May 1, 2025, and vary depending on the experience. Tastings take place inside the caves or outside, depending on the season and the type of booking. For guests who want more control, private and custom tastings are available on weekdays. Group sizes are limited, and the structure is set, but the setting is distinct and atmospheric.
Sterling Vineyards
- 1111 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, CA 94515
Sterling stands apart in part because of its gondola. The aerial ride to the hilltop tasting room offers broad views of the surrounding valley, and is included in all wine experiences. During periods of extreme heat, the gondola may shut down for safety. Once on the property, guests can explore the grounds or settle in for a tasting. To preserve the experience and manage crowds, no gondola-only ticket is sold unless it’s paired with a wine experience. The winery prioritizes scenic appeal amid the rolling hills and draws a mix of casual and first-time visitors looking for the kind of photo-friendly stop Napa sometimes avoids. Note that children are not allowed, and pets are restricted except for service animals.
Tank Garage Winery
- 1020 Foothill Boulevard, Calistoga, CA 94515
In stark contrast to some of the ultra-luxury brands nearby (and elsewhere on this list), Tank Garage trades polished for playful. Housed in a restored 1930s service station in Calistoga, the winery focuses on experimental blends with irreverent labels and limited runs. Wines are often made once and never again. The space mixes automotive nostalgia with a punk-rock attitude, attracting guests less interested in tradition than in something offbeat. It doesn’t appeal to everyone, but it’s not trying to. Tastings feel loose and unfiltered, and the wine selection changes often.
Where to Eat
Charlie's Napa Valley
- 1327 Railroad Avenue, St. Helena, CA 94574
Charlie’s sits just off the train tracks in St. Helena, but it feels more like a neighborhood fixture than a destination restaurant. The menu leans New American, with local sourcing and global touches shaping the dishes and drinks. The setting is unfussy but intentional, designed to reflect the values of a family-run business focused on long-term staff and community ties. There’s no heavy branding or theme; instead, it’s a place that seems built to be useful and enduring. Creative cocktails and a thoughtful wine list round out the offering. It’s a spot that locals return to and visitors tend to remember.
Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch
- 738 Main Street, St. Helena, CA 94574
Farmstead is one of the most visible and visited restaurants in St. Helena, thanks to its position on Main Street and its sprawling, ranch-adjacent setting. The space itself— a renovated barn—hosts a wine bar, casual dining area and an expansive patio. The food reflects its surroundings: beef from the ranch, produce from the estate and a menu that leans into its Napa roots without being performative. Wood-fired pizzas and seasonal fare dominate, and the vibe stays accessible despite the scale. It works for larger groups without feeling impersonal. This is one of the few places where the wine tasting, the meal and the setting align as one experience.
Gott's Roadside
- 933 Main Street, CA-29, St. Helena, CA 94574
Outside of the more historic wineries, Gott’s is as close to a local institution as it gets, effortlessly balancing nostalgia with quality. Gott’s opened in 1999 in St. Helena and has since expanded to multiple locations across the Bay Area. The food is fast but carefully done—burgers, tacos and shakes made with local ingredients and a surprising amount of thought. The California Burger and Ahi Poke Tacos are popular orders. This being the Bay Area, the beer and wine lists are curated, too, and the roadside setup encourages lingering. The setting is casual, with indoor-outdoor seating and a crowd that runs from families to winery workers to day-trippers. It’s one of the few stops that works just as well for a quick bite as it does for a full lunch.
Press
- 587 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, CA 94574
Press has shifted significantly in recent years. Once a steakhouse, it now serves a refined tasting menu under the guidance of a team that puts as much focus on wine as on food. With a 10,000-bottle collection, it holds the largest all-Napa wine list in the world. The dining room is polished and designed for pace: seven courses if you want the full lineup, five if you’re short on time. (And there are always a few surprise additions along the way.) Ingredients skew seasonal and local, with occasional splurges—caviar on a pretzel, poached lobster and American wagyu. (The restaurant can also accommodate all dietary restrictions; for example, the chef can swap in vegan seaweed caviar instead.) The clientele includes winemakers and collectors as much as travelers. It’s one of the few restaurants in the valley that leans fully into formality without losing warmth.
Sam's Social Club
- 1712 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga, CA 94515
Located at the base of the Indian Springs hotel, Sam’s balances familiarity with flair. It serves breakfast through dinner; longer hours than many other Calistoga restaurants. The dinner menu mixes California standards with comfort food, from shrimp cocktail to grilled pork chop to stuffed poblano pepper. There’s a fireplace inside and a broad patio outside, both of which tend to stay busy. The setting feels like a polished take on the kind of place you’d want to have in your neighborhood. It attracts both resort guests and locals, which gives it a slightly wider lens than many of its neighbors.
Solbar
- 755 Silverado Trail N, Calistoga, CA 94515
Solbar is part of Auberge's Solage resort, but it doesn’t act like a hotel restaurant. The dining room is modern and open, with outdoor fire pits and a sunlit patio that’s doubled in size. The menu is divided by tone: lighter dishes on one side, bolder ones on the other. Breakfast includes items like chia pudding and lemon ricotta pancakes; dinner leans toward miso black cod, halibut and truffle risotto. The bar program is tight and tuned to local ingredients. The restaurant works as a standalone, though it helps to be staying nearby. Solbar has carved out a space between spa food and fine dining that still feels specific.
Station St. Helena
- 1153 Main St., St. Helena, CA 94574
Housed in a converted gas station, Station St. Helena is a hybrid of all-day café and pizzeria. It opens early and runs through dinner, with a lineup that includes baked goods, breakfast wraps, sandwiches and New York-style pizza. The team makes its own mozzarella, focaccia and pizza dough, and the ingredients trend organic and local. Seating is mostly outdoors, and the atmosphere stays casual. The place is owned by Joel Gott, who also founded Gott’s Roadside, but the approach here is more understated. It’s a reliable stop for a snack or a full meal without needing a reservation.
The Charter Oak
- 1050 Charter Oak Avenue, St. Helena, CA 94574
The Charter Oak takes its food seriously but keeps its tone low-key. The space—a former brick winery—is visually striking but feels lived-in, with wood-fired cooking, daily menus and shared plates meant for the center of the table. Chef Katianna Hong runs the kitchen with a clear emphasis on vegetables and simplicity, drawing from a nearby farm less than a mile away. Dishes change often and are presented with minimal flourish: grilled avocado, truffle honey on sunchokes and hearth-roasted proteins. Dessert arrives by cart, a detail that reinforces the slow, shared pace of the meal. It’s one of the more carefully executed restaurants in the valley, without ever being theatrical.
The Model Bakery
- 1357 Main Street, St. Helena, CA 94574
Ask locals where they go regularly, and nine times out of 10, they will say The Model Bakery. Best known for its English muffins, which draw early-morning lines daily, the bakery’s reach includes pastries, sandwiches and artisan breads. The atmosphere is informal, with walk-up ordering and limited seating. The baked goods are made daily and often sell out. For those who plan ahead, there’s a “late bake” at the Oxbow Public Market outpost in downtown Napa further south that offers another window to pick up their signature loaves.
Where to Go
Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park
- 3369 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, CA 94574
Bale Grist Mill is one of the oldest structures in Napa Valley and the only water-powered grist mill still in operation west of the Mississippi. Built in 1846 by the Bale family, it predates the founding of both the city of St. Helena and the State of California. In the 19th century, it served as a milling site for local wheat and corn and functioned as an early community center. The site is also tied to several key moments in regional history, including the Bear Flag Revolt, with early marchers said to have gathered there before crossing into Sonoma County. The first church in the valley was founded on the property, and the first schoolhouse stood just across the road. Today, the mill sits adjacent to the Vine Trail and connects directly to Bothe-Napa Valley State Park via the 1.2-mile History Trail. It remains a working site and an unusually intact example of early Napa industry, with original mechanisms still in use.
Bothe-Napa Valley State Park
- 3801 St. Helena Highway, Calistoga, CA 94515
Bothe-Napa Valley is less trafficked than other outdoor destinations in the region, which makes it well-suited to quiet hikes and last-minute weekend plans. Located between St. Helena and Calistoga, the park spans nearly 2,000 acres and includes inland coast redwoods, shaded trails and creek access. Camping is available year-round, and options range from tent and RV sites to yurts and walk-ins. Trails like the Redwood Trail and Ritchey Canyon loop through forested areas that feel removed from the valley floor. Dogs are allowed (but always remember to pick up after them), and the day-use areas typically stay uncrowded, even on peak weekends. The park is one of the few places in Napa Valley where you can walk for hours without encountering a crowd or a tasting room.
Calistoga Spa Hot Springs
- 1006 Washington Street, Calistoga, CA 94515
Aside from the wine, a visit to the hot springs is the biggest draw to Calistoga. The town has long attracted travelers with its natural geothermal waters, and Calistoga Spa Hot Springs remains one of the most direct ways to experience them. The property includes four mineral pools: a lap pool, a warm soaking pool, a whirlpool and a cooler wading pool for children, each fed by underground springs. Traditional mud treatments use a mixture of local volcanic ash, clay and hot spring water, followed by a mineral bath, steam session and blanket wrap. Massage services are also available, either on their own or paired with the spa’s signature offerings. Though the spa sits on a hotel property, day guests are welcome to book services without an overnight stay.
St. Helena Main Street
- Main Street, St. Helena, CA 94574
St. Helena’s Main Street is less polished than downtown Napa or Yountville, but that’s part of its appeal. There are no national chains, and the storefronts range from curated boutiques to second-generation art galleries. The scale is walkable, and it’s possible to cover most of the downtown area in one afternoon. Lyman Park, at the north end of town, offers shaded lawns and a gazebo that occasionally hosts small events. The nearby side streets are worth exploring and often quieter than the main drag. It’s the kind of place where squaring away time for walking with a coffee and window shopping makes just as much sense as securing a fine dining reservation.
The MAC—Napa Valley Museum of Art & Culture
- 607 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, CA 94574
Opening in spring 2025, The MAC will mark a major expansion of the Napa Valley Museum’s presence in St. Helena. Housed in the former Dean & DeLuca building near Press restaurant, the new space will launch with a touring exhibition on Julia Child. The museum will share the building with a new café from the Press team and promises future exhibitions like “The Wyeths: Three Generations.” This move allows the museum to show more of its permanent collection and host larger public events. The Yountville location will remain active, but the MAC is expected to serve as the flagship. With support from the Ron & Diane Disney Miller Fund, the expansion adds a cultural anchor to an area better known for farm-to-table restaurants and tasting rooms.
Vine Trail Napa Valley
- 3299 Claremont Way, #5 Napa, CA 94558
The newest section of the Napa Valley Vine Trail opened in August 2024, linking the Calistoga Depot to Pratt Avenue in St. Helena. It’s part of a larger 47-mile plan to connect Vallejo to Calistoga. This stretch runs just over eight miles through vineyards, tree groves and open land—and is entirely car-free. The trail is paved and accessible to pedestrians, cyclists and families, with views of Bothe-Napa Valley State Park and agricultural properties along the way. It’s dog-friendly and even horse-friendly (in certain segments only for the latter). The trail operates as a nonprofit effort, with work supported by local fundraising and volunteer coalitions. For visitors staying in the Up Valley, it offers a rare chance to move through Napa Valley without getting in a car.
Where to Stay
Alila Napa Valley
- 1915 Main St, St Helena, CA 94574
Alila is adults-only and located just off Main Street in St. Helena, which makes it unusually central for a retreat-style hotel. The rooms are designed for privacy and equipped with extras like soaking tubs, fire pits and large terraces. On-site dining includes Violetto, a prix fixe restaurant combining French technique with Italian ingredients, and Salvia, a more casual bar and terrace serving seasonal fare. The property feels scaled for quiet, with a muted aesthetic and views of surrounding Beringer vineyards. The architecture and interiors lean contemporary, but nothing feels stark or over-designed.
Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley
- 400 Silverado Trail N, Calistoga, CA 94515
Set just outside downtown Calistoga, the Four Seasons offers residential-style villas and one of the more expansive hotel fitness centers in the area, with vineyard views from nearly every window. The resort sits on its own working vineyard and includes a Michelin-starred restaurant, Auro, which serves a full breakfast as well as a seasonal seven-course menu at dinner. Spa Talisa focuses on long-form spa treatments such as mud wraps and oxygenating facials, and hosts private outdoor soaking tubs. The tone is polished but not flashy, and the layout with a great lawn, multiple pools and bocce ball courts encourages guests to stay on property rather than explore outside. It’s designed to function as a self-contained stay, with dining, spa and recreation all within walking distance.
Harvest Inn
- 1 Main St, St Helena, CA 94574
Harvest Inn sits at the edge of town in St. Helena, with direct vineyard access and views that feel more rural than residential. The setting includes redwood groves, two heated pools and Adirondack chairs placed to overlook the vines. Rooms are spread out across a walkable property and vary in layout, with some opening directly onto vineyard paths. The hotel offers luxury car rentals for guests, a detail that reflects the interests of its clientele. The on-site restaurant, Harvest Table, serves farm-forward meals in a casual format. There’s no resort fee, and the property allows dogs, which makes it one of the more flexible mid-range options in the valley.
Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection
- 755 Silverado Trail N, Calistoga, CA 94515
Solage is built around a 20,000-square-foot spa, and much of the guest experience orients around wellness. The studio-style accommodations feature outdoor patios, vaulted ceilings and earth-tone interiors. Newly built one- and two-bedroom cottages add options for guests seeking privacy and space, with extras like outdoor showers, soaking tubs and fire pits. The spa includes geothermal pools ranging from cold plunges to hot mineral baths, and access is included with spa services or as part of the stay. Dining takes place at Solbar, where the menu alternates between light and bold options. Located near downtown Calistoga, Solage draws a mix of wine travelers and spa-focused guests, and is one of the few resorts to balance both audiences.
Wydown Hotel
- 1424 Main St, St Helena, CA 94574
The Wydown Hotel is a twelve-room property in downtown St. Helena, notable for its scaled-down luxury and quiet presence. Rooms come with amenities like plush robes and Geneva sound systems, but the experience is shaped more by curation than excess. Guests have access to Health Spa Napa Valley, located just a short walk away, which includes a pool, fitness center and steam room. The hotel’s communal spaces, including its art-filled Tea Room and library-style lounge, reflect the inspiration in design and slow living. Breakfast is complimentary and light, with afternoon cookies provided daily. The tone is personal, not overly formal, and well-suited for travelers who want to stay in town without a lot of fuss.