Steamers, Lobsters and Chowder: The Ultimate Newport Restaurant Guide
The insider’s guide to Newport’s dining scene, from waterfront bistros to seaside clam shacks.
Read More
In Newport, dining out has been a full-contact sport since the Gilded Age—because what else would you expect in a place where “summer” is a verb? The seasonal residents who descend upon this Aquidneck Island resort town do so with a desire to see and be seen. While the dress code today is less elaborate than it was in the late 1800s, dining institutions still enforce a certain standard of style to this day—a New Yorker cartoon framed in the men’s room of the Clarke Cooke House summarizes the de facto Newport uniform: “You can kill me, but you can’t kill the navy-blue-blazer-and-khaki-pants combo.”
Of course, there’s more to Newport than the WASP splendor airing on Sunday nights on HBO, and the flourishing and diverse culinary scene is one of the coastal town’s many welcome surprises. From inventive Mediterranean offerings to handmade pizza and pasta to farm-sourced greens, downtown Newport is bustling with a plethora of new restaurant openings alongside the continued excellence of many heritage establishments. Yet, unsurprisingly for the sailing capital of the world, seafood remains the most popular cuisine, especially in the summertime when the offerings are freshly caught. And while this is the case in many East Coast resort towns, the Ocean State puts its own signature twist on coastal classics.
Rhode Island clam chowder, for example, has a clearer broth than the creamier New England variety. The Point Judith calamari is the official state appetizer, named for a village on the Rhode Island Sound where the squid is deep-fried and prepared with all the naughtiest ingredients: butter, garlic and hot peppers. A "stuffie" is another Newport favorite, a minced clam served on a quahog shell—just remember to pronounce it “kow haag” when ordering, to sound less like a tourist and more like a local. When in Rome, you know. Lastly, a mudslide is not a natural disaster, but an intentional one if you imbibe too many on the patio at the Black Pearl, and no Rhode Island summer is complete without some Del’s frozen lemonade.
Luckily, we’ve compiled the ultimate guide for the best spots to sample all of the above—and a lobster roll, of course. I’ve been visiting Newport since childhood, and feel well-equipped to advise on where to dine—and what to order—while out on the town. From chic waterfront bistros to seaside clam shacks, read on for your insider’s guide to dining out in Newport, Rhode Island.
The Insider's Guide to Newport's Dining Scene
Clarke Cooke House
- 24 Bannister’s Wharf, Newport, Rhode Island 02840
When it comes to Newport dining and nightlife, nothing tops the Clarke Cooke House. The restaurant, an intoxicating blend of nautical elegance and infectious revelry, has been the place to see-and-be-seen since its opening in 1973. Guests can choose between four different bars on various levels of the waterfront establishment, which was first built in 1780 by sea captain Clarke Cooke. The 18th-century architecture is accentuated by an expansive array of sailing ephemera, America’s Cup posters, and—of course—the good-looking patrons.
How you dress—and what you eat—varies by where you dine in the Newport restaurant. The Bistro and Candy Store on the main floors boast bay windows overlooking the harbor, live music on weekends, and Summer Sushi during peak season. The fresh tomato salad and gazpacho are always popular, as are the local lobsters and oysters. The Patio on the top floor (also known as Sky Bar) requires a reservation (and a dinner jacket) for entry. If you book upstairs, order a Snowball in Hell alongside your post-dinner espresso martinis. The chocolate-covered goblet of vanilla ice cream, served with great ceremony and adorned with sparklers, has been deemed the world’s WASPiest dessert and “Newport in a glass.” If it’s a Saturday night, try to book your table for as late as possible to enjoy after-dinner dancing to Motown and the classics.
The Black Pearl
- 30 Bannister’s Wharf, Newport, Rhode Island 02840
Head next door to the Black Pearl, another legendary Newport institution that opened in 1967 and is more laid-back than its equally historic neighbor. Situated right on Bannister’s Wharf overlooking Newport Harbor, the Pearl is famous for its award-winning clam chowder (Rhode Island-style), reliably delicious Pearl burger, and its mudslides (a famous sailor’s drink). The mudslide tastes like an alcoholic milkshake, and is on tap at the outdoor Waterside Patio bar, along with daiquiris and piña coladas. While a reservation is nearly always required at the Cooke House during peak season, the Black Pearl’s first-come, first-served policy is a welcome relief for dining downtown. The Pearl has three distinct sections: the aforementioned Waterside Patio, which has a heated and tented seating area overlooking the harbor, the cozy, wood-paneled Tavern, which also features bar seating, and the more formal Commodore’s Room, which is designed to evoke the captain’s room of a ship. Nautical accoutrements abound at the Pearl, with ship models and maritime artwork. The Tavern, with its oil paintings of tall ships in stormy seas, is perfect for a wintry afternoon with a cup of that famous chowder.
Flora
- 24 Lee’s Wharf, Newport, Rhode Island 02840
Head to Lee’s Wharf to visit the Gardiner House, the buzziest new hotel in Newport, and the home of Flora, a stylish Mediterranean-inspired seafood fine dining restaurant overlooking the harbor. The property is owned by two Newport locals who brought their discerning eye to the chic, vibrant decor, the spirited atmosphere and the cuisine. Flora’s menu of regional and seasonal ingredients is sourced from local farms and fishermen. The executive chef, Miguel Somoza, was born in Spain and brings the vibrant flavors of Marbella across the Atlantic, infusing his signature dishes such as the Dover sole and Bank scallops with a zesty, mouthwatering twist. The dress code is sharp—no flip-flops allowed—and the energy is festive, especially on the weekends when the tables are cleared for a live DJ set. If you’re not in the mood to dance, check out The Studio Bar downstairs, a well-appointed hideaway for espresso martinis by the fire.
Flo’s Clam Shack
- 4 Wave Avenue, Middletown, Rhode Island 02842
A trip to Newport is incomplete without a visit to Flo’s Clam Shack, a salty indoor-outdoor bar across the way from Easton’s Beach (also known as First Beach by locals; the public beaches are nicknamed according to distance from Thames Street). This laid-back clam shack is kitschy in a delightful New England way: a large shark statue, nicknamed Bruce, bares its teeth at passersby from atop a wooden canoe, and Newport and nautical memorabilia adorn every inch of the two-story establishment. But don’t let the cheeky decor fool you—Flo’s is far from a tourist trap, and is beloved by perhaps the largest swath of Newporters on this list, from summer regulars who remember their first “stuffie,” to the sailors and assorted old salts, and college kids and surfers who stop by for a Narragansett and fried clams after a day in the sun. Don’t let the line dissuade you; it moves quickly, and, if you’re ordering from the raw bar, you can do so directly at the bar on the second floor. But, for first-timers, a sampler of the award-winning clam cakes is a must, as is a Dell’s frozen lemonade from the truck across the street afterward—because why not experience two Rhode Island culinary staples in a single afternoon?
Perro Salado
- 19 Charles Street, Newport, Rhode Island 02840
This trendy Mexican eatery opened fairly recently (by Newport standards) in 2009, but the house it occupies on Charles Street dates back to 1719. Perro Salado similarly embodies both worlds, infusing a historic centuries-old colonial with a lively, cheery atmosphere and twinkling Christmas lights overhead. “Perro salado” means “salty dog,” a reference to both the nearby Atlantic and the revelrous nature of the establishment. The vibe is cozy and fun, perfect for a date night or a group dinner with friends (especially since they offer margaritas by the pitcher—we suggest the passionfruit.) The enchiladas are amazing, as are the chicken tinga tacos. For more Mexican cuisine in downtown Newport, check out Diego’s on Bowen’s Wharf, which recently also opened an outpost in Middletown.
The Lawn Terrace at Castle Hill Inn
- 590 Ocean Drive, Newport, Rhode Island 02840
Head down the scenic and windy Ocean Drive, home to some of the most breathtaking Newport mansions, for cocktails and seafood at Castle Hill Inn. This Relais & Chateaux property is set upon a windy bluff where you can watch the sailboats as they cruise by, with Newport Bridge in the distance. The atmosphere is very “Kennedys on vacation,” which is fitting considering JFK married Jackie at her family’s estate, Hammersmith Farm, two miles down the road. Grab one of the white Adirondack chairs and order a blueberry lemonade to watch the sunset before heading up to the terrace for dinner. On a sunny day, the outdoor seating is sublime for enjoying oysters and lobster salad al fresco. The glass-paneled bar is ideal for wasting away on a rainy afternoon, and if you’re looking for a fancier option, make a reservation for the six-course chef’s tasting at Aurelia. The property is open year-round, and the sunsets in Newport are even more spectacular in the winter, making Castle Hill a reliably spectacular option for dining out in all four seasons.
La Forge
- 194 Bellevue Avenue, Newport, Rhode Island 02840
Newport may be known as the sailing capital of the world, but tennis is another leisure sport taken to very non-leisurely levels of excellence in this storied resort town. The International Tennis Hall of Fame, with its pristine grass courts and storied sports history, has been a go-to spot for weekend tourists since its official opening in 1954. Located right on Bellevue Avenue, it’s usually the first or last destination to visit on a day of mansion tours. (The Cliff Walk takes around three hours, with glimpses of the Vanderbilt family’s getaway, The Breakers, and Rosecliff.) But a more relaxed way to experience the destination is with a glass of wine over lunch at La Forge. The Hall of Fame is housed within the Newport Casino, which was first built in 1880, and the restaurant is located in the historic Charles McKim building. While the dining room boasts an understated elegance and inviting atmosphere, we recommend dining courtside beneath the shade of an umbrella. The eatery serves up a blend of seafood and American classics. Order the lobster roll and the crispy calamari.
Pasta Beach
- 138 Bellevue Avenue, Newport, Rhode Island, 02840
Pasta Beach was an instant hit when it opened in 2002, a welcome alternative to the tried-and-true haunts on Thames Street and standard seafood fare. The brand has since expanded to Boston and Providence, though this Bellevue Avenue outpost is the beloved original. The chic, garden-themed decor, with its green-and-white striped bar and the warm lighting of its orange chandeliers, is fun and playful, creating the perfect ambiance for a date night or a celebratory dinner. Reservations are encouraged, but a pasta bar and a back bar accommodate last-minute drop-ins. Order an Aperol spritz and pretend you’re in the East Coast version of Capri—which, given its glamour and style, is not an inaccurate description of Newport in August. The handmade pasta is, unsurprisingly, the star of the show. We suggest the bucatini cacio e pepe, but the pizza is also delicious (especially the margarita). For the best slice in Newport, nothing can top Nikolas, the laid-back Italian eatery on Memorial Boulevard that’s been the go-to delivery spot for four decades.
