An Insider’s Guide to Sri Lanka
Grab a fresh coconut and watch surfers glide across waves in Weligama or Hiriketiya. Wait quietly as elephants stomp past your vehicle and leopards hide in the jungle while on safari in Yala National Park. And in the country’s center, watch the cascading tea terraces.
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Sri Lanka is an enigma. A little bit of India, a splash of the Maldives and a hint of Bali, the country retains a distinct personality all its own, discernible only in its startlingly diverse corners.
Situated off the coast of India, this West Virginia-sized island is surrounded by the Indian Ocean. Along its south coast, grab a fresh coconut and sit back while surfers glide across waves in Weligama or Hiriketiya. In the east, wait quietly as elephants stomp past your vehicle and leopards hide in the jungle while on safari in Yala National Park. And in the country’s center, watch women crisscrossing the cascading tea terraces, picking leaves and throwing them into woven baskets in hill country cities like Ella or Nuwara Eliya. From safari drives to Buddhist temple hopping to surf camps, there are endless adventurous ways to fill your itinerary.
Given the large size of the island, climate varies by region, and so do its high seasons. Most tourists hit the southern half of the island (Sri Lanka’s north isn’t quite as developed yet), which peaks from November to April.
Despite its peaceful nature, this teardrop-shaped island has had its fair share of tragedy, including centuries-long colonization by the Portuguese, Dutch and English, a lengthy civil war and a devastating terrorist attack. But its natural beauty, inviting culture and citizens’ resiliency have made it one of South Asia’s most desirable destinations for intrepid travelers.
Visitors typically land at Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport after a layover in Hong Kong or a Middle Eastern hub (usually Dubai, Doha or Abu Dhabi), before setting off for whichever corner of Sri Lanka comes calling. Most visitors, including Americans, need a 30-day tourist visa to visit; allow at least two weeks for it to process. Once all the t’s are crossed and i’s dotted, travelers can tour the country a few different ways, including via a private driver, taxi or a drive-it-yourself tuk-tuk. So, pick your poison and ride off to the jungle or the sea, dodging honking buses and squawking peacocks.
Where to Stay
Casa Tikiri
- Kabalana Rd, Ahangama 80650, Sri Lanka
Hidden among towering palm trees in the small southern surf town of Ahangama, Casa Tikiri is a pastel-painted, adults-only boutique hotel. Started by two Italian immigrants, the property has seven unique rooms with thoughtful details throughout. Brass door handles resemble elephant trunks, each bed’s mosquito net is stitched with sayings like “in a gentle way, you can shake the world,” and furniture is made from restored antiques with cane-woven lampshades from local artisans. Make a reservation at the all-day restaurant, serving upscale Sri Lankan bites and a perfectly al dente bowl of pasta. The couple’s second lodge, Paddy Lodge, will open in March 2025.
Wild Coast Tented Lodge
- Wild Coast Tented Lodge Palatupana, Yala, Sri Lanka
True to its name, everything at this Relais & Châteaux lodge is wild, from the waves splashing on its rocks to the elephants known to saunter through the lobby. The premiere lodge inside Yala National Park in southeast Sri Lanka, its 28 tented suites channel a top-notch African safari experience. Copper-soaking tubs, teak flooring, leather furniture and canvas walls harken back to colonial-era decor. A stay here is all-inclusive, including daily game drives through the national park in search of elephants, sloth bears and the ever-elusive leopard. The hotel’s guides will also help set up excursions to nearby sites, including Sithulpawwa, an ancient Buddhist monastery deep in the park.
Camellia Hills
- Dunkeld Estate, Dickoya, Hatton 22000, Sri Lanka
Misty mornings in Sri Lanka’s Castlereagh Valley tea country region feel like something out of a romance novel. Camellia Hills is a British-era tea bungalow with five bedrooms and an infinity pool perched above Castlereagh Reservoir. Wood four-poster beds, contemporary English furniture and French doors give it a cozy, distinctly European feel. After a day spent hiking or visiting nearby tea factories, enjoy the uninterrupted views with a steaming pot of Ceylon tea while the stone fireplace crackles in the background.
Amangalla
- 10 Church St, Galle 80000, Sri Lanka
One of two Aman properties in Sri Lanka—the other is Amanwella, on Tangalle’s coast—Amangalla is a polished piece of history. Located inside the Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the luxury hotel served as the 17th-century headquarters for the Dutch military. Hundreds of years later, its original tile floors, lengthy sash windows and lofty white-beamed ceilings create a beautifully airy atmosphere for guests. Don’t miss afternoon tea at this luxury Sri Lanka property, where the surprising star is the hot chocolate mixed with Sri Lankan spices. The spa includes a variety of locally-influenced wellness treatments, personalized by the hotel’s Ayurvedic physician.
Lunuganga
- Dedduwa, Bentota 80500, Sri Lanka
It’s hard to talk about Sri Lankan architecture without mentioning Geoffrey Bawa, the Sri Lankan architect considered to be among Asia’s most influential 20th-century designers. Travelers can now stay in his jungle home in the southern town of Bentota, an ode to his signature “tropical modernism.” Its ten rooms are spread throughout his former property, decorated in original brick flooring, teak ceiling beams and antiques from Bawa’s travels. Lunuganga’s uber-tranquil lakeside locale and expertly manicured garden make it the perfect place to start and end your trip pre or post-flight. Just be aware that it is a famed historic site, so things get busy during the daily tours and cafe hours.
Where to Eat
Smoke & Bitters
- Pehebiya, Pehebiya Rd Dickwella, south 81200, Sri Lanka
Ranked the number 29 bar in Asia and number 86 in the world by 50 Best, it’s safe to say this beachside spot in Dickwella is one of Sri Lanka’s top restaurants. Whether you come for the drinks or the food, you won’t be disappointed. The signature Old & Smoked, made with Sri Lankan arrack, is a favorite, as is the Cherry Cherry Cola, topped with coconut foam. Dig into a selection of “Podi Plates,” including the smoked pork shoulder served on roti, the smoked local burrata with house-cured anchovies and the kurumba calamari, replacing squid with perfectly fried strands of kind coconut. It’s perpetually packed, so reservations are a must.
Gini
- 8 Havelock Pl, Colombo 00500, Sri Lanka
Things get fiery at this beloved fine-dining restaurant in Colombo, where the team specializes in live-fire cooking using local and seasonal Sri Lankan ingredients. From fresh oysters with a burnt pineapple vinaigrette to dry-aged grilled reef fish to Malay beef cheek curry, it’s all cooked with a perfect char in the open-air kitchen. In fact, pretty much everything here is open-air. There are a few tables inside, but most diners sit under the stars as the flames from the oven roar nearby.
Club. Ceylon
- 25 Main St, Negombo, Sri Lanka
Seafood is the star at this Negombo go-to. Started by London-trained chef Elizabeth Norris, this fish-focused restaurant sits inside a historic, elegantly restored 1940s colonial home, about 15 minutes from the Bandaranaike International Airport. Every morning, Norris heads to the nearby Negombo Fish Market, the country's largest, where she works with a handful of trusted local fishermen to source the highest-quality, most ethically-caught fish. The homemade tagliatelle with fresh crab and paprika prawns is a must-order.
What to Do
Visit the Ancient Cities
Sri Lanka’s “Cultural Triangle” is made up of the ancient cities of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya and Dambulla. Situated in the center of the country, this cultural route takes Sri Lanka travelers to sites like the the UNESCO World Heritage Sigiriya Rock Fortress. Climbing the 1,200 steps may feel like a chore, but the views from the top, overlooking the royal garden design, are well worth it. Nearby in Dambulla, the Cave Temple (another UNESCO World Heritage Site) is among the country’s most spectacular cave systems, with several Buddha statues and paintings.
Join a Cooking Class
In a country known for its vibrant curry, fresh seafood and rich coconut, eating and cooking is one of the best ways to enjoy this island nation. Everyone’s aunty makes the best crab curry, so it’s not hard to find a fantastic cooking class via a contact at your hotel. But if you’re looking for a non-touristy experience, contact Kumbuk Villa in Ahangama. Here, a passionate mother-son duo lead a multi-hour cooking class in their garden. Diners will learn how to make authentic Sri Lankan cuisine (including his mother’s curry) using indigenous and medicinal ingredients plucked straight from their garden.
Ride Through the Tea Fields
Train travel has never been hotter, and the Ella to Kandy route is known as one of the world’s most beautiful. Chug past lush, sloping tea fields, small local villages, flowing waterfalls and emerald-green forests during this roughly seven-hour scenic ride. While some of Sri Lanka’s tea estates have a reputation for being exploitative towards their workers, the train ride is a great way to see the tea fields without visiting a factory. But its reputation precedes itself, so book a seat a month in advance to avoid missing out. Hot tip: If you’re riding from Ella to Kandy, choose seats on the left side for prime views.
Embark on a Safari
Straddling the Indian Ocean, Yala National Park has over 300,000 acres of grasslands, forest and lagoons for grazing. If big cats are your thing, this park claims to have the world’s largest concentration of leopards. Herds of elephants, elusive sloth bears, spotted deer, jackals and peacocks also roam this protected area. To avoid lengthy lines when the park opens, make sure your safari guide has a pre-booked entry ticket, and to see heaps of animals, plan a visit between February and July. If you’re looking for a closer or less crowded alternative, try Udawalawe National Park, which is ideal for elephant spotting.
Learn How to Surf
Sri Lanka’s south coast is a surfer’s paradise. In the tiny town of Hiriketiya, the swell is constant and steady, gently rolling into the bay. Perfect for beginners, there are dozens of surf camps set up along the shore, ready to teach you the ropes for roughly $17 a one-hour session. If “Hiri” is too packed, head west to Weligama, where you’ll find plenty of other wobbly board riders. For those who’ve already ridden a wave or two, nearby Mirissa and Ahangama are other fantastic places to hire a board.
