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Dining in Australia With Cobram Estate’s Wunderkind Chef, Kevin O’Connor
Sitting among the rows of olive trees in Australia’s Yarra Valley, Chef Kevin O’Connor ambled from his makeshift kitchen toward our long table covered in white linens. He carried with him an olive oil carrot cake, the final chapter of our afternoon-long luncheon at Boundary Bend Grove that had included Kangaroo-stuffed bao buns paired with a “sweet and sour” sauce made from roasted grapes and pickled shallots, and acorn flour blinis topped with local salmon roe. This nearly-500 acre olive grove located outside of Melbourne is home to Cobram Estate, the Australian powerhouse producer of olive oil with a distinctly old-world image first established by Rob McGavin and Paul Riordan in 1998. Now, a small team, which includes Mr. O’Connor’s role as “Chef at Large,” is aiming to transform this household staple that supplies 70% of the olive oil consumed in Australia, into an upmarket accoutrement for stateside foodies.
