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Grub Match

Grub Match: Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein Slug it Out

It was a busy year in the ever-changing New York restaurant scene, from cronuts to ramenburgers, MP Taverna to Piora, Costata to Carbone, where expense accounts go to die. What were the year’s hits, misses and standouts? Which new venues have staying power, and what absurdities will spoil faster than you can say “bacon chocolate shake”? The knives came out when Observer contributor Josh Ozersky and restaurant critic Joshua David Stein carved up topics ranging from chef of the year to sign of the dining apocalypse, best dessert to best dining neighborhood. Gentlemen, we’re ready to order.
By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
The Elm's red fruit tart

Best Dessert of 2013

Stein’s pick: Jeff Systma’s work at The Elm is the perfect complement to Paul Liebrandt’s savory genius. His famous red fruit tart, which may now be in hibernation, is a thing of immense beauty and deliciousness: meringue chips, lemon-confit meringue lemon grass marshmallows, red plums. It’s meant for two, but I have eaten the whole thing myself. Forgive me. The plums were delicious, so sweet and so cold.
By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
Carbone

Best Restaurant Service of 2013

Ozersky’s pick: I have to go with Carbone (above) here, just because the art direction is so perfect and because they employ great veteran waiters who predate the current era. No food writer can really talk about service, though, because we all get different treatment from civilians. That’s just a fact of life in the food media.
By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
Ignacio Mattos (left) and Dominique Ansel (right)

Chef of the Year, 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
The Cecil

Most Underrated Restaurant of 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
Piora

Best New High-End Restaurant of 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
Ramen Burger

Surest Sign of the Dining Apocalypse in 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
Carbone

Best Expense Account Restaurant of 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein

Best New Budget Restaurant of 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein

Most Overrated Restaurant of 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
Glasserie

Best Food Neighborhood of 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
Baked stuffed crisped potato at Rotisserie Georgette (Photo by M. Hom)

New Restaurant With Most Staying Power, 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein

Best Restaurant Atmosphere, 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein

Food and Restaurant Predictions for 2014

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
Luksus

Best and Worst Food Trend of 2013

By Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein
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