Stein’s pick: Perhaps because he has been out of the game for so long or because his food isn’t the easy-to-digest distillation of black-folk stereotypes, but Alexander Smalls at The Cecil has been, I think, rather unfairly overlooked. The Cecil (below) is tremendously important, culturally brilliant and absolutely delicious. It deserves to be mentioned and evaluated. Yet I believe I’m the only critic to have done so, which is insane. It is literally underrated.